The Russian Mosin Nagant Forum

Is there any way at all to reload berdan primed cases? It seems an aweful waste to toss out thousands of spent berdan surplus cases.

I always heard they are not reload able, but maybe there is a way...

i like your signature by the way

MeatMarket wrote:Is there any way at all to reload berdan primed cases? It seems an aweful waste to toss out thousands of spent berdan surplus cases.

Steel cased ammo is hard on reloading equiptment and hard to prepare. Berdan primers are not readily available as well as hard to replace. The Berdan Primer pocket has 2 holes instead of one on a boxer primed case making them harder to clean and prep and even hard to get out. The Berdan primer relies on an anvil in the case's pocket. I don't reload but I've seen reloaders talk about this and these are some of the concerns I've seen raised.

Well I did some research just now and found a few different methods that some people use to deprime berdan cases. I also found a few sources for berdan primers. One guy posted a video showing how be reprimes berdan cases using a lee priming tool. I will experiment.

us up to date on how it's going.

Using a drill press with a 1/16" bit, I drilled into the primer to make a hole, and used a nail punch to pry it out. The operation as a whole isn't hard, the trick is to keep from damaging the anvil with the bit. With practice, I believe I can make that work. I would use an even smaller bit, but I'm afraid I'll break it. I will also try the hydraulic method, but I'm not too keen on the idea of cleaning up the mess that will make, and I don't have a press.

There is a little hook pry tool that is around. I think it is RCBS. It basicly does the same thing only has a little pry action to go with the hole.

I did see that but consider it expensive. I also saw bad reviews on it. I saw a similar homemade method on another forum a little while ago that I'm going to try in the morning. Grind and sharpen a screwdriver or similar tool (this guy used an old chainsaw sharpening file) to use as a prying tool. Stick the case in a chamber sized hole in a peice of wood and tap the prying tip into the primer with a hammer and simply pry it out. This guy said it works really fast and clean for him and doesn't damage the anvil, so I'll give it a go and report back.

Sounds like a pain in the ass no matter how it's done.

Nope it's easy. I tested the second method this morning. I screwed a block of wood into my workbench and drilled a hole to fit the case in. Then I ground the tip of a flathead screwdriver into a suitably shaped point. With a couple of taps with a ball peen hammer, I drove the point into the side of the indentation left by the firing pin and pryed it out. Took about three seconds. It looks like I'll get to reload these afterall.

How expensive, or hard to find were the primers?

Grafs has them (and a couple other suppliers) for about 30 bucks per thousand. TulAmmo brand.

Another question: What diameter bullet should I use? I hear talk that most use .311 dia bullets, but my Lee reloading book says the max dia is .310. What do I make of this? Also, my goal is to reload cartridges as close to original military specs as possible. My book lacks reload data for 147grain bullets but has reload data for 150grain bullets that will get it close enough to 2800fps to satisfy my requirments. I found Prvi Partisan 150 grain bullets in .311 dia. at Grafs. Do ya'll think I'd be alright using these?

MeatMarket wrote:Grafs has them (and a couple other suppliers) for about 30 bucks per thousand. TulAmmo brand.

i will have a look at them.

They should work fine. I think hornady makes one that is .3105 for the .303. There are alot of different sizes of berdan primers, do they have a bunch of different ones?

No, they've only got a few types, but they say they'll fit 7.62x54.

Here's an easy way to decap Surplus 7.62x54r cases using simple water pressure:

Find a steel rod that snugly fits into the case mouth and is taller than the case (I use the decapping rod from my Lee Classic Loader – since I only deal with surplus steel, I ground the pin off the end of it). First stick the rod all the way into an empty case and mark the rod so you know how close to bottoming out you are. You don't want to prang the bottom of the case. This comes into play later.

Find a base that the case will stand in, with a hole for the cap to fall out through. The base on my Lee Classic Loader works fine. A standard reloading shell holder works great, but a 15mm socket will also work without damaging the case. So would a small piece of hard wood 1/2” thick with a hole smaller than the case through it. Doesn't need to be perfect, the cases are tough and we're not going to put a whole lot of pressure on them.

Put a towel on your workbench. Fill the case completely with water – completely.

Put the case on the holder of choice on the towel.

Stick the Rod into the case 1/2” down , to the case shoulder – some water will squeak out.

Hold the case upright and whack the Rod straight down with a dead-blow hammer. The water-pressure will blast the primer out. A couple of cases and you'll get a feel for how hard to hit.

You'll need to keep moving the case holder to dry spots – wet cloth will compress and become a seal, leaving the water no place to escape.

The rod will be trapped in the case by water suction. Hold the Rod end and shake all the water out of the case – like shaking down an old-fashioned thermometer. The Rod should slide out now. Might need to use a cloth to get a good grip.

There you go – decapped by water pressure.

Hey Guys, I've been flogging the Web for an hour...what's the cubic centimeter equilavent to 12gr of Alliant Unique?

Check out this guy's cast bullet load:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SN_Mbv47Yg8

No, thank you. I don't want to use the hydraulic method. The method I described above works for me without damaging the case or anvil.