M1 garand questions

[ponycarman]

Ive interested in the garand for a while now. I looked at a couple the other day and have some questions for y'all who know about them. One I was interested in was priced at $699 I believe. I looked it over and it was nice. The store keeper said it was imported from somewhere because it looked like some kind of arabic markings on it. What countries have sold garands back to the usa? This was a springfield armory rifle. Is this type of rifle even worth looking into? What are some things to keep my eyes open for? Such a problem areas and stuff like that. I've been super curious about garands but I really know nothing about them haha. Thanks guys

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[Junk Yard Dog]

There is a huge amount of information out there on the M1 Garand, for starters get the Garand books put out by Bruce Canfield, and Scott Duff before you buy a Garand. I couldn't possibly cover everything on this subject here, specific questions about a particular rifle maybe. The Garand was sent to every US Allie after WW2, in the last 20 years many have returned from South Korea, Brazil, Greece, and probably other places. You need to examine the bore very carefully and it helps if you have the proper gauges for this. US rifling is much shallower cut than the Mosin, or Mauser, it is more prone to damage from improper cleaning , and just basic wear. Uncle had the money to rebarrel the Garand every few years, this is a rifle that must be cleaned from the muzzle end, it's prone to serious wear to the barrel crown, this is especially true of the foreign imports. Springfield Armory made the largest number of Garands 1936-1957, the serial number can be decoded to date the year, and month of manufacture, pretty much every Garand has been refurbished, mixture of parts is common, all US milsurps only have one serial number on the receiver so no matching numbers bullshit. I highly recommend getting a Garand, it is the second best battle rifle ever fielded by any country anywhere, the updated Garand called the M14 being number 1, but make sure you educate yourself first, get the books, read them.

[Jumperwire]

+1 on that. I bought 3 of Scott Duffs books on amazon. The red, white and green book. $66 shipped, I think. Then when I couldn't find the answers. I utilized the knowledge of Sgt Rob.

[ponycarman]

Cool thanks guys! I guess I've got some reading to do haha. I'll look into getting the books. I want to get a garand sometime. Hopefully when they are still somewhat affordable lol. I wasnt sure if the rifle being imported from another country made an inpact on the value or performance. I thought $699 was a descent price for one nowadays. He even said he would go lower just to make an offer lol. I'll probably be saving and researching alot about them soon. I've been buying so many rifles and shotguns that I have a hankering for a few more pistols haha.

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[Celt]

I'm sorry to tell you this pony....if you buy a Garand , you will be put on my foe list!

[ponycarman]

Haha bring it! I would have a garand. Bang bang bang PING!

Just kidding

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[Celt]

I want one of those also. They are the ultimate combat rifle as far add I'm concerned. I almost bought a Remington woods master just to be close , but I will accept no substitutes! One day it will be mine....oh yes.

[ponycarman]

Sure thing buddy! Sounds like we are in the same boat with budgets and stuff. Just got to save those pennies haha. I was looking but there is way for me to but right now unless they have a very easy layaway plan haha. One day maybe.

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[pacanis]

Ive interested in the garand for a while now. I looked at a couple the other day and have some questions for y'all who know about them. One I was interested in was priced at $699 I believe. I looked it over and it was nice. The store keeper said it was imported from somewhere because it looked like some kind of arabic markings on it. What countries have sold garands back to the usa? This was a springfield armory rifle. Is this type of rifle even worth looking into? What are some things to keep my eyes open for? Such a problem areas and stuff like that. I've been super curious about garands but I really know nothing about them haha. Thanks guys

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Sounds like something I asked a while back, minus the Arabic part
I have two Garands, both bought without books. I let the internet do what it was intended to do, but it will never match a dedicated set of books. And I emphasize set, because I was once told Ball's book on Military Mausers was "the" book on Mausers and it has many holes in it I have filled with lengthy internet searches. So pretty much anything you need to know for a first purchase without dropping 1/6 the price of the rifle on dead trees can be searched out.

That said, in my over-simplified approach to M1's I look at three things, "born date" (The serial# on the receiver, when was it made? There's a site for that); Barrel date and markings, usually up on the top behind the front sight; and any stock cartouches.
You would like the year the receiver was made to be pretty darn close to the year the barrel is stamped with. They don't have to be exact, as barrels were often made ahead and stock piled. This means they just might have been put together that way and not changed and is more collectible.
And sto continued

[pacanis]

Sorry about that. You know how jumpy the forum gets with a long winded post

And stock cartouches. Proof marks are nice. FJA marks are nice. This most likely means the stock was actually on an M1, maybe even yours. And if the stock stamp matches the metal stamp (SA for Springfield Armory), all the better.

Anyway, those are the three things I look for.

Then there are the big two things if you want it to be accurate, TE and MW... throat errosion and muzzle wear. Did I read somewhere that anything less than 6 was acceptable by the army? Pretty sure i did. We like smaller numbers though. Those are pretty self explanatory. A good gunshop that also buys will have the gauge.

And there's a bunch of little things that mean a lot, op rod numbers and stamps, rear sight knobs, a whole bunch of stuff I won't touch on because I just don't know/remember All the things you won't find on a $675 Garand unless you are JYD at the flea market

That'll get you going though.

Oh, and that said (again) I bought a real beater (the stock anyway) that shoots great and the barrel and receiver are WWII dated. The stock has the right stampings, too. And then I bought a pristine CMP Garand for more dough that was most likely rebarreled, new stock and that shoots plumb sized groups that is giving me nothing but headaches with its double fires and premature ejecting. You just never know.
Jump in!

[Junk Yard Dog]

I'm sorry to tell you this pony....if you buy a Garand , you will be put on my foe list!

I currently have nine of them, you must f***in' hate me

[Jumperwire]

I'm sorry to tell you this pony....if you buy a Garand , you will be put on my foe list!

I currently have nine of them, you must f***in' hate me

Oh your a Dawg!!!!!!

[Celt]

That doesn't count. And hate is a strong word.

[ponycarman]

Thanks for the info pacinas! I'll be doing some more research on them. I was hoping to learn from the internet and save the book money for a little later maybe. I may look it over again if it is still there when I go back for the shotgun. I guess if its a descent functional rifle at around the $699 price it is a deal regardless of the markings. Like I said, functionality is far more important to me than over all collectability. I know I can't afford a garand that is a high value collector piece. I just want something to shoot and enjoy. Something to enjoy the history of the design. If it is still there ill see if I can get a more detailed description of the rifle I looked at. He had another but it was a couple hundred more.

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[desdem12]

I am right up there with PAc. I am notorious for not wanting to spend gun funds on books. I like the books but i like the guns better. If you go for a good looking cheap beater you may learn more that way. Just be careful and look it over good and ask questions. There are no cheap ones here though.
Read as much as you can on the net before shopping. and good luck

[etprescottazusa91]

One of the most pleasant rifles I know of to shoot is the Garand, shoulders nice easy to acquire the target and then pump out eight .30 caliber rounds, all in all a great rifle.

[Junk Yard Dog]

I spent an easy grand on books between the 80's and 90's, I used the hell out of them, they taught me a great deal, and I still have them to refer back to whenever I need to.

[Sgt. Rob]

ponycarman, if you have any you are looking at I can probably help. Keep in mind that almost all you look at will have been rebuilt over the years by USGI depots at the minimum, and many will have seen foriegn service. Finding an Original unrestored WWII M1 Garand is pretty much only in museums and high dollar private collections. Original post WWII Garands may still be available from the CMP. Most found in shows and stores will be rebuilt as mentioned while in service somewhere or "restored" by private indivduals in the M1 Garand collecting community. In that community, restorations are not frowned upon as they are here. I don't say I agree or disagree with it, its just the way it is in that particular collecting community, and new folks looking for an M1 need to know that, or possibly get burnt when purchasing.

Semper Fi, Rob

[ponycarman]

Thanks Sgt. I looked over the same rifle again the last time I went and it keeps making me want it more. I can't find anything major wrong with it. The wood is very nice and had some stampings on it. I didn't state at them long enough to completely make out what they were though. I guess the biggest fear I have of purchasing it is that I don't have the proper gauges to check the muzzle wear and throat wear. I'm afraid I'll buy the thing and have to fork out even more money to have a barrel replaced haha. I can barely afford to think about getting one. The rifle I looked at was $699 I think. May have been $599. The store keeper also said every price was negotiable. He kept trying to get me to make an offer on the garand.

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[Sgt. Rob]

Well, an M1 Garand is generally going to require additional financial output in many cases. A number of the M1's imported back to the U.S. from S.Korea, S. America and the CMP Rack Grade MIP returns from Greece and Denmark may need parts to smooth them up and get them running again. The problem is that in many cases you will not know what is the problem until you can actually shoot it. The upside is that most all replacement parts are available to fix them, but it may cost anywhere from $20 to $300 to fix depending on the problem. If you can test fire one before buying, then do so. The prices you have are very good by todays market value, and could be a real bargain. However they could also be due to the previous owner having issues and not knowing how, or wanting to fix them. Most good functioning M1's are in the $1000.00 to $1200.00 range outside of the CMP. If you can go the CMP route and get a Service Grade M1, you can save your self both money and possible headaches. However for $599.00 I would take a chance as it would probably not cost more then $300 to get it running in top notch shape, provided the barrel is shootable. Have the dealer take an M2 ball round and insert it into the muzzle point first. If 3/8 or more of the bullet remains from the muzzle to the case, you are in good shape, so long as the rifling runs to the crown and you do not notice any dents or burrs that could affect the bullet from going in further. Work the oprod and see if it easily seperates from the reciever prior to reaching the notches that are intended for its removal. It should not jump from the track at all until it reaches the notch. Also inspect the gas cylinder and gas cylinder lock for cracks. If you can remove the oprod, check the stainless steel button for chips or heavy and I mean heavy wear. Also check the bolt lugs for cracking, and if you can not get the headspace checked, ask the dealer to guarentee it because you intend to have it checked. On the receiver itself, check for any discolaration, pitting, and missaalignment of the front and rear halves. also look to be sure the milling marks from the machining process follow through uninterupted. If any of the above appears then walk away, as it is a welded together reciever from scrap parts. ( Many use the term "reweld", but how can you reweld something that was originally one piece?) Off the top of my head, these areas I mention are the ones that will really cost you money if they are defective. Other parts are less so, and usually with in ones budget if they can afford the M1 to begin with. Please PM me or respond here with any questions you may have and I will help out to the best of my abbilities!

Semper Fi, Rob