My 1944 Tula & light restoration questions

[S2K2K3]

Hey everyone, new to the board here! Long time lurker, first time poster.

I bought this 1944 red letter Tula (not ex sniper I believe, BH prefix, no scope mount hole plugs) in 2014 from a buddy of mine in the Army before he moved back home for 75 bucks. I've done a lot of research and can't find any examples like mine, so if anyone has any extra info that I missed, it would be great.

Anyways, it was pretty beat up when I received it, but it did have matching numbered everything, (probably force matched) bayonet, full kit, etc.

The front sight is slightly bent to the left, does anyone here have any tips on rebending it back? Or just take it to a gunsmith possibly? It shoots well, other than the bolt getting a bit sticky when hot.

Secondly, I was wondering what could be done about the chipping and scratched stock, if anything. I'd rather not botch a touch-up job, and ruin the character and history of this rifle.

Thanks guys!

20190205_104414.jpg

[millman]

I wouldn't mess with it. Do you have a pic of the sight? As for the stock, anything you do to it will decrease its value.

[Darryl]

I wouldn't mess with it. Do you have a pic of the sight? As for the stock, anything you do to it will decrease its value.

[S2K2K3]

I wouldn't mess with it. Do you have a pic of the sight? As for the stock, anything you do to it will decrease its value.

Sure do, see attached photos. It's not as if the front sight post is bent, just the sight ring, seems shifted over a bit and the ring is slightly out of round. Don't know if it's as simple as knocking it to the side some.

Excuse the light surface rust, I've been overseas for the past 3 years, so it's been in a safe with my SKS, haha. Should be receiving a good clean shortly.

As for the stock, I was more wondering what type of oil to use for the exposed/ scratched off portions of wood, just as an extra layer of protection.

Thanks guys!

[millman]

If ithe doesn't shoot off to the right real bad I would leave it. If it shoots ok some Russian might have bent it over on purpose. Some folks will suggest lemon oil for the stock, but over the years I have come to realize unless your rifle is seeing battle, the stock will be fine as is. Use a bronze brush and some oil to scrub off the surface rust, reoil and you will be good to go.

[S2K2K3]

If ithe doesn't shoot off to the right real bad I would leave it. If it shoots ok some Russian might have bent it over on purpose. Some folks will suggest lemon oil for the stock, but over the years I have come to realize unless your rifle is seeing battle, the stock will be fine as is. Use a bronze brush and some oil to scrub off the surface rust, reoil and you will be good to go.

Sounds good to me, thanks Millman!

[millman]

You are welcome.

[ma96782]

I don't know how important (or rare) those red numbers are. But, I also have a good number of them that were from the same importer as yours.

Aloha, Mark

[Longcolt44]

I don't know how important (or rare) those red numbers are. But, I also have a good number of them that were from the same importer as yours.

Aloha, Mark

Just don't be licking on those red letters, I saw on the internet that it was poison.

[zeebill]

I don't know how important (or rare) those red numbers are. But, I also have a good number of them that were from the same importer as yours.

Aloha, Mark

Just don't be licking on those red letters, I saw on the internet that it was poison.

I will answer about the red letters this way, I can get you yellow or blue if you care to have them? As far as licking them there are a bumch of things in this world that are poison if you're dumb enough to lick them! Balistoll is the same basic mineral oil as Lemon oil without the pretty stink and I use it on everything with no damage and a fine long term rust preventative source too. Bill

[AMCHornet]

Looks like a normal front sight to me. It's on a dovetail so it can be drifted to correct windage. The hood may have been manufactured crooked or been hit at some time. I'd probably leave it alone if I were you. Trying to straighten the hood may break it.

Best to leave the stock alone too. I like to use Howard Feed n Wax on my stocks. It puts a light beeswax coating on the stock to seal areas of wood that are no longer sealed with varnish. It gives it a layer of protection without making it look any different or removing any finish, and it adds a little shine.

I'd use naval jelly to remove active rust rather than any abrasives that will remove bluing. Then lots of oil.

[steelbuttplate]

I don't know how important (or rare) those red numbers are. But, I also have a good number of them that were from the same importer as yours.

Aloha, Mark

Just don't be licking on those red letters, I saw on the internet that it was poison.

Maybe that's what has been giving me the shits. I'll stop and see if it gets better.

[Junk Yard Dog]

I don't know how important (or rare) those red numbers are. But, I also have a good number of them that were from the same importer as yours.

Aloha, Mark

Just don't be licking on those red letters, I saw on the internet that it was poison.

Maybe that's what has been giving me the shits. I'll stop and see if it gets better.

No, it's bad 'shine condensed in car radiators, stop drinking that cheap shit or you will be blind next.

[millman]

Looks like a normal front sight to me. It's on a dovetail so it can be drifted to correct windage. The hood may have been manufactured crooked or been hit at some time. I'd probably leave it alone if I were you. Trying to straighten the hood may break it.

Best to leave the stock alone too. I like to use Howard Feed n Wax on my stocks. It puts a light beeswax coating on the stock to seal areas of wood that are no longer sealed with varnish. It gives it a layer of protection without making it look any different or removing any finish, and it adds a little shine.

I'd use naval jelly to remove active rust rather than any abrasives that will remove bluing. Then lots of oil.

DONT get naval jelly anywhere near your rifle. It will strip the metal down to the white. Oil and a bronze brush to scrub with will remove any rust you may have. We had a guy on here once that completely ruined a nice Mauser with Naval Jelly.

[Junk Yard Dog]

Looks like a normal front sight to me. It's on a dovetail so it can be drifted to correct windage. The hood may have been manufactured crooked or been hit at some time. I'd probably leave it alone if I were you. Trying to straighten the hood may break it.

Best to leave the stock alone too. I like to use Howard Feed n Wax on my stocks. It puts a light beeswax coating on the stock to seal areas of wood that are no longer sealed with varnish. It gives it a layer of protection without making it look any different or removing any finish, and it adds a little shine.

I'd use naval jelly to remove active rust rather than any abrasives that will remove bluing. Then lots of oil.

Naval jelly is for removing rust from boat fittings, there are better alternatives for the rust. For guns use ordinary light oil and a bronze bore brush. Pour oil on the rust, scrub with the brush until the oil turns orange, wipe off, repeat if necessary. I am going to experiment with Evaporust, it ate the rust off my impact sockets without disturbing the phosphate coating. I have NOT tried it with anything blued yet, and to do a barreled action would be expensive, and require container the same size.

[millman]

Bluing is a form of rust. Naval jelly will strip it clean.

[RugerNut]

Bluing is a form of rust. Naval jelly will strip it clean.

Are you saying that I shouldn't have used it on my PB sammiches?

[millman]

Bluing is a form of rust. Naval jelly will strip it clean.

Are you saying that I shouldn't have used it on my PB sammiches?

It wouldn't have been my first choice.

[FrodoB]

Recommendations I've received for cleaning rust - agree/disagree?

1) 0000 steel wool and light oil - change often as the rust collects in the pad and can scratch the finish.
2) old copper penny - not newer zinc. Harder than the rust but softer than the steel - so does not mar the blueing.

Comments?

[millman]

Recommendations I've received for cleaning rust - agree/disagree?

1) 0000 steel wool and light oil - change often as the rust collects in the pad and can scratch the finish.
2) old copper penny - not newer zinc. Harder than the rust but softer than the steel - so does not mar the blueing.

Comments?

I agree with the penny and the oil. I have heard of 0000 steel wool being used with good results, but avoid it in favor of a bronze brush. I got one that looks like a toothbrush at the hardware store for cheap.