The Russian Mosin Nagant Forum

Finally got to the range yesterday. Functioned flawlessly. I still don't know if it was the burr in the receiver, the poorly fitting firing pin retainer or the odd chip in the bolt. Or a combo of all three.
I took my time and was cautious. Bought some snap caps and cycled them many times. Went to the range and put on some serious safety glasses and shot several singles, then several doubles then triples. Gun worked perfectly. Pulled the old firing pin retainer and it is still peening a little. I'll just replace it every few hundred rounds. No pierced primers.
I want to especially thank Martin08 and Old Outlaw for all of their help. And here are the results at 50 yards. It is not a tack driver thats for sure. Next, work on the trigger, it is still really hard, creepy and gritty.

Looks like you tuned it right down into the center! Good job, shoot her and have fun. It will last you a life time!

Edit: I had a Romanian trigger group acting up.Cleaned it good with brake cleaner, and then used a Q tip to
work Moly Grease into every nook and cranny I could. Then rem oil to finish it up. Every evening for a week or two Using a snap cap I fired it and all of a sudden. Walla.Works pretty darn good now and groups went to about 11/2 to 2" at 50 yds from a sand bag rest.

This was truly an unissued Yugo, there were no wear marks and the stock still had pencil marks. The trigger is slowly getting better. I figure I'll run around 200 rounds through then take it apart, clean and polish the wear surfaces. I like the snap cap idea, I can sit at home and shoot the tv (with the snap caps).
By the way, 1000 grit sandpaper and a little grease on the place that the mosin bolt rubs on the receiver makes that bolt work almost like butter.

GREAT NEWS

That's awesome! Your thread was one of the first I read when I joined. I am happy you got it worked out and dialed in! Very cool you had others helping you out along the way

Glad you got it running Poly.

OLD OUTLAW wrote:Looks like you tuned it right down into the center! Good job, shoot her and have fun. It will last you a life time!

Edit: I had a Romanian trigger group acting up.Cleaned it good with brake cleaner, and then used a Q tip to
work Moly Grease into every nook and cranny I could. Then rem oil to finish it up. Every evening for a week or two Using a snap cap I fired it and all of a sudden. Walla.Works pretty darn good now and groups went to about 11/2 to 2" at 50 yds from a sand bag rest.

Good post. After I read poly's post I was wondering how you would go about working on a trigger without actually polishing it with a stone and changing the way it was manufactured/issued. Basically you are saying to just clean and lube it well, then break it in from use. I like that.

Nice shootin' poly.

pacanis wrote:

OLD OUTLAW wrote:Looks like you tuned it right down into the center! Good job, shoot her and have fun. It will last you a life time!

Edit: I had a Romanian trigger group acting up.Cleaned it good with brake cleaner, and then used a Q tip to
work Moly Grease into every nook and cranny I could. Then rem oil to finish it up. Every evening for a week or two Using a snap cap I fired it and all of a sudden. Walla.Works pretty darn good now and groups went to about 11/2 to 2" at 50 yds from a sand bag rest.

Good post. After I read poly's post I was wondering how you would go about working on a trigger without actually polishing it with a stone and changing the way it was manufactured/issued. Basically you are saying to just clean and lube it well, then break it in from use. I like that.

Nice shootin' poly.

With an SKS, there is a guy in Texas that you can send the original trigger group to. He has original parts that he can use to replace any totally worn out sears, chewed up hammers, etc. If I ever have one with worn out parts I will consider seriously sending to him.

This is good news!

A very simple clean up of the sear and frame rails will take the grit right out of the trigger. If you pop the mag-catch release lever pin, the sear will slide right out. I use a very small jeweler's file and clean the channels in the side of the sear, and the rails inside the frame with very light pressure. Work a few strokes on each surface until you feel no more drag. Be cautious, you are not removing material. Instead, you are just smoothing factory machining.

A light touch of the hammer rest area of the sear with a stone will also help with a crisp/smooth release. When you are done, swab out the grit with a q-tip, apply a light coat of moly, rub it in with the q-tip, wipe away any excess, and then enjoy a lighter and more consistent trigger function.

Back to the range to tighten up those groups!