The Russian Mosin Nagant Forum

installing a Fin trigger to 91/30,
im thinking of doing this to see what difference it makes iv got a tula 1943 pu sniper that could use some trigger help. does the 2 pin Finn trigger simply replace the original? do I need a Finn spring as well?

The Finns fitted these to their rifles, I have never changed a trigger in any milsurp so I don't know what's involved.

The M39 style 2 pin trigger goes on just like a normal trigger. The fact that the pin only contacts the sear on the two pin surfaces is what make them better, in theory, than a normal one. That said, I am sure the Finn armorers had some tricks to tweak the shape of the sear spring to reduce the sloppy loose triggers that are the norm to MNs. I do not know if simply swapping in a 2 pin trigger will give you the desired results.

timothyds wrote:installing a Fin trigger to 91/30,
im thinking of doing this to see what difference it makes iv got a tula 1943 pu sniper that could use some trigger help. does the 2 pin Finn trigger simply replace the original? do I need a Finn spring as well?

What's so bad with the trigger that it needs replacing? I've found the worse the trigger, the better the shooter it makes you. Teaches trigger control better than anything if you ask me. My 42 Izhevsk has by & far the worst trigger on a rifle I have ever experienced & I treasure that blood draining arthritis creating beast. Made me a much better shot.

Just sayin'....

let us know the outcome, i was thinking of doing the same change

There is no clear answer to this in my experience. I have had a couple of Finn rifles that would not except the two pin triggers at all. It made bolt cycling very hard or impossible. The sear would hang-up in the bolt bottom. I have changed triggers around from gun to gun and kept track of where they started out and ended up with great and slack free triggers after doing that. Just doing that is simple but again should require you to do a bounce check to make sure you have not created a dangerous situation where the cocked rifle will go off without warning. Anytime you do trigger, sear, or bolt work you should do a bounce check for safety. Bending and stoning can create more problems and take more time then just trading parts around and not messing with any of the above. Now I have seen Finn rifles come right from the importer with this done to them but I sure don't feel qualified to recommend or do it myself. Bill

My policy has always been to leave the trigger alone as it was made by the arsenal. The trigger is one area that if you screw it up you could have a negligent discharge and possibly kill someone. If this happens after you have been fooling with the trigger then it is not simple mechanical failure due to age, it is your fault.

I've played with a LOT of Mosin triggers and to answer the OP's question: No, they are not "plug and play", you have to tune the trigger to the bolt and receiver. It is a painstaking process to get it right and the parts are not cheap enough to make mistakes. The best advice I can suggest is to take some 2000 grit wet or dry sandpaper, pull the sear and polish the hell out of it without changing anything. PUT AWAY THE FILES!! Do not try to change anything. Don't be tempted to bend the sear, etc. It will probably break. Just polish the face and then take the bolt, remove the connector rod, hold the bolt vertical with the cocking piece resting on something soft but solid, and polish the face of the cocking piece where it meets the sear. Just making those 2 surfaces smooth and polished will have a positive effect on the trigger without risking a dangerous situation.

Yeah, changing triggers doesn't make a lot of sense. I have done this on occasion after receiving a rifle that was very difficult to cycle as a result of the sear being too high causing a binding on the bolt when cycling the bolt and making it virtually impossible to get the bolt out of the receiver. I suppose I could have tried to remove a little material or polished it (we're talking thousands of an inch) but I didn't want to ruin the sear or cause a potentially unsafe weapon. I have put springs in a couple of real floppers but don't recommend putting those shims in. I found with my PU that the trigger is really nice the way it is. I've thought about putting a Finn trigger in but never followed up on it. I guess I don't feel a real need to do so.

Buy a finn with a nice trigger, or buy another mosin with a nice trigger, just about as cheap and way more fun.

Rongo wrote:

timothyds wrote:installing a Fin trigger to 91/30,
im thinking of doing this to see what difference it makes iv got a tula 1943 pu sniper that could use some trigger help. does the 2 pin Finn trigger simply replace the original? do I need a Finn spring as well?

What's so bad with the trigger that it needs replacing? I've found the worse the trigger, the better the shooter it makes you. Teaches trigger control better than anything if you ask me. My 42 Izhevsk has by & far the worst trigger on a rifle I have ever experienced & I treasure that blood draining arthritis creating beast. Made me a much better shot.

Just sayin'....

I use the rifle in competition against modern rifles which are far easier to shoot, im just wanting to level the field as much as I can with my tula 1943. I have already polished all surfaces im just interested to see if it makes any difference.

desdem12 wrote:Buy a finn with a nice trigger, or buy another mosin with a nice trigger, just about as cheap and way more fun.

im in Australia where they are not very cheep or very available so I need to make gains with what I can get my hands on. I have found vast differences between the triggers when swapping between several MN pieces I have im curious as to the difference the fin trigger could make and iv never seen one in person so i9 thought id ask before going to the expense.