The Russian Mosin Nagant Forum

Ok I'm looking into more mosins,and it hit me,will carburetor cleaner take commie grease off of the metal parts? Has anybody ever tried this?

Best I found was Kingsford Charcoal Fluid..........then I started buying Finn's and the problem went away........

Kinda expensive, but should work just don't get any on the wood.

strip it down and use boiling water....Not much cheaper than that.
Oil when finished.

Mineral spirits works just fine.

mikeg1952 wrote:strip it down and use boiling water....Not much cheaper than that.
Oil when finished.

That's what I've been doing but I need something easier

First of all, where the heck have you been? Second, yes you can use it, but it is really too aggressive. I would suggest finding something better because one mistake and it gets on your stock it will mess it up. I would go with the mineral spirits if you don't want to fool with boiling some free water and literally melting away the greasy cosmo.

Carburetor cleaner will take off the black paint the commies used to touch up poor blueing jobs, you'll end up with a patchy finish.

I've had good luck with Zep purple cleaner (Home Depot) at about 50% dilution with water. It will defat your hands if you don't wear gloves though
I would stay away from carb cleaner - that is nasty stuff.

It would probably work-- yes. But I can't see the need for anything NEARLY as strong as carb cleaner.

But for me, I don't see the point in cleaning off all the grease anyway, getting it squeaky clean and then re-oiling it. I think that is a little like dehydrating something and then adding water right back to it. I don't use boiling water or any slovent. Wiping works just fine. I just take it apart, wipe off what I can, blow it with compressed air to get the "big globs" out, and repeat a few times. After that, it is still greased. A little grease = good, not bad.

Yaaa..The Kids back.
I stick with the Mineral Spirits /and some boiling
Oil,and your good.Dont take that long.
You can always zap it again for long storage if you want.
https://www.dlbensinger.com/product_inf ... 59581f1eec

It just seemed like a good idea,y'all know what I mean

Just wipe the grease off with a soft rag, if you must have squeeky clean metal then use simple green. All the solvents mentioned contain shit you shouldn't be sucking into your lungs.

Be careful with cleaning wood. If you think it works great for shellac and try it on a Finn stock, you may degrease the stock and concurrently take all the original finish off, greatly knocking down the value. Don't ask me how I know.

That's why I now clean with paper towels and cotton rags only. Nothing wet.

neal45 wrote:Be careful with cleaning wood. If you think it works great for shellac and try it on a Finn stock, you may e degrease the stock and concurrently take all the original finish off, greatly knocking down the value. Don't ask me how I know.

That's why I now clean with paper towels and cotton rags only. Nothing wet.

I know not to hit the wood with it,I have surgical wipes for that purpose,they takao the grease off the stock

I agree with M1guy. All I ever do is wipe down and leave a thin coating. Its just grease and should mix with what ever you oil it with. I feel that way it keeps rust away better.

Mike wrote:Carburetor cleaner will take off the black paint the commies used to touch up poor blueing jobs, you'll end up with a patchy finish.

You are absolutely right but if you don't buy or collect refurbs you don't worry about that do you. Use runner gloves, do it outside (tough to do in the winter), keep it miles away from the wood, and blow it off with compressed air immediately and away from anything you value. I have used it for years with no troubles and if you buy the Wallmart stuff when it is on sale it is $1.19 for a bottle. Depending on how dirty a new to me rifle is I can get 2 to 3 done per can. Do not get it in your eyes or you will curse me till your death which may come soon at you own hands, God it smarts!! If you use the little red extender nozzle it is a lot easier to control where you want it to go. Just keep it away from your face and body and try not to breath it. Bad stuff if you are not very careful with it. I use it and as soon as I am done I head for the sink and wash my face and hands with cold water and plenty of soap. It evaporates and becomes air born fumes almost immediately after hitting and removing just about anything so in the winter it gets you even colder if the temps are already down. Bill

I would never use carburetor cleaner on a firearm, it's not easy to find around here and I badly need it for cleaning.....wait for it.....Carburetors. That ether crap they put in the gas now has me cleaning small engine carb's all the time, and I have to do the antique Fords at least once a year.

Cant you get the ethanol free gas for your old stuff up there in NY JYD? We use it in our mowers generators and anything with a carb. It wont cause that funky gum crap build up. I know you get gas from the junk cars that come in but at least use it in the T

I use mineral spirits followed by carb cleaner followed by Hobbs #9. I built a PVC pipe closed at both ends filled with mineral spirits...oak the barrel in it overnight and then used carb cleaner followed by Hobbs #9... seems to work for me. I soak the small parts in mineral spirits followed by carb cleaner. I throw a bore snake in for good measure. Follow all this with some good oil.