The Russian Mosin Nagant Forum

I heard a story the other day, but to shorten it up, WD stands for Water Displacement and the 40 stands for, it took 40 times to perfect it.

I always end up with 3 or 4 cans of it for some reason. I heard a rumor years ago that it makes a good scent attraction on fishing lures. I never did get any bites with it the few times I tried it. Mostly I have a small can of it in the house to fix squeaky door knobs and hinges. Oh, and recently to free up a stuck bearing in my furnace ventilation blower.

Every convenience store in town carries it is how I probably end up with so many!

Jumperwire wrote:I heard a story the other day, but to shorten it up, WD stands for Water Displacement and the 40 stands for, it took 40 times to perfect it.

It does work for that. I've sprayed it on damp ignitions on a car that's been sitting for a long time on a rainy day just to get them running and in the shop. It also works as starting fluid for diesel engines. MN Fan I've heard that it is a very good fishing lure spray. I've never used it but I've also heard it's illegal to have in your tackle box in some states. I don't know if this is truth or urban legend. I've also heard it's partially made from fish emulsion (ground up fish). Never seen this proven either. All I know is it might make things wet/lubricated and work for some uses but it drys up after a bit. I have the rusty door hinges to prove it, lol. Actually I've taken to spraying them down with gun oil.

Hmmm that didn't take long. http://www.wd40.com/about-us/history/

BTW It works good at removing road tar from your car

Jumperwire wrote:Hmmm that didn't take long. http://www.wd40.com/about-us/history/

BTW It works good at removing road tar from your car

Wow! What an article. It doesn't contain fish emulsion. I never really believed that one, lol. It's 50% mineral spirits. No wonder it cleans stuff up. Thanks Jumperwire. Great reading.

WeldonHunter wrote:

Jumperwire wrote:Hmmm that didn't take long. http://www.wd40.com/about-us/history/

BTW It works good at removing road tar from your car

Wow! What an article. It doesn't contain fish emulsion. I never really believed that one, lol. It's 50% mineral spirits. No wonder it cleans stuff up. Thanks Jumperwire. Great reading.

I love the smell of WD-40. I guess my dad used it on his shotguns or something when I was a kid because no matter how often I smell it I instantly think of reloading shotgun shells in the garage and hunting with my dad. Every time too. I use it for penetrating oil when it calls for something not too severe, as PB Blaster has a chemical smell that throws me under the bus. But it works good. Kroil is my penetrating oil of choice, but only at home. The shop won't buy it and I won't sacrifice mine.

WWII GI Bore cleaner, the real stinky stuff in the small oval cans, I drip a few drops onto the workbench and it brings me back 30 years in an instant.

bunkysdad wrote:I love the smell of WD-40. I guess my dad used it on his shotguns or something when I was a kid because no matter how often I smell it I instantly think of reloading shotgun shells in the garage and hunting with my dad. Every time too. I use it for penetrating oil when it calls for something not too severe, as PB Blaster has a chemical smell that throws me under the bus. But it works good. Kroil is my penetrating oil of choice, but only at home. The shop won't buy it and I won't sacrifice mine.

Oh yeah, Kroil is the bomb! That's the best penetrating oil I've ever used.

WeldonHunter wrote:

bunkysdad wrote:I love the smell of WD-40. I guess my dad used it on his shotguns or something when I was a kid because no matter how often I smell it I instantly think of reloading shotgun shells in the garage and hunting with my dad. Every time too. I use it for penetrating oil when it calls for something not too severe, as PB Blaster has a chemical smell that throws me under the bus. But it works good. Kroil is my penetrating oil of choice, but only at home. The shop won't buy it and I won't sacrifice mine.

Oh yeah, Kroil is the bomb! That's the best penetrating oil I've ever used.

I have to agree, that's some good stuff.

My gas adjustment screw was seized on my Egyptian Hakim and after soaking for a week with WD40 and PB Blaster if I remember right it still would not budge. A soak in Kroil overnight and it came loose no problem, and all of the threads were well lubed.

bunkysdad wrote:My gas adjustment screw was seized on my Egyptian Hakim and after soaking for a week with WD40 and PB Blaster if I remember right it still would not budge. A soak in Kroil overnight and it came loose no problem, and all of the threads were well lubed.

My buddy told me about it years ago. He's in his 70s and had been using it for years. He told me about a friend that had an old car with a locked up motor. This car had sat for a long time and the rings had rusted to cylinder walls. He'd tried all kinds of stuff and nothing worked to free the motor up. My buddy gave him some Kroil and a spray of that in each cylinder freed the motor up after a soak. He called my buddy and said in an Australian accent " Yaw s#*8 freed up my mota". You and I both know that motor has some serious problem if it was rusted enough that the rings were rusted to the cylinder walls but it's an interesting story. The Sili-Kroil is great stuff but you don't want to get it on anything you're going to paint. The silicone makes paint adhesion kind of hard. The Aero-Kroil is the best all around stuff.

In an old baby food jar I have apiece of OOOO steel wool soaking in gun oil. Very light pressure will take off most surface rust without causing any problem with the underlying surface. A pink pencil eraser works too.

In the old days we would fill a stuck engine with Coke Cola, the old formula, it would sit for a day or so and eat the rust right off the metal. I never wanted to think to closely on what it did to stomach linings

I used real Coke to get rust off a knife before. It worked like a charm, but discolored the blade black/gray.

Vinegar will derust small items, but the item must be kept entirely under the surface of the vinegar or any part sticking above the line will rust badly.

The Coke and the vinegar work the same way. They are both acids.

lol Russell...you're right. Not as quickly as large amounts of vodka would though

We have built several packaging systems for Coke throughout the world. One thing I always thought interesting is the equipment's area classification. Basically, in handling of liquid products, you have three area classifications...General Purpose (inert products, no chance of explosion), Class I, Division II (explosive vapors may be present) and Class I, Division I (explosion is likely and iminent). Those are brief descriptions of each code. Anyway, for Coke projects, we have to design and build to Class I, Division I. The control cabinets and all enclosures have to be pressurized with Nitrogen. The system has to be capable of purging the containers to be filled with N2 as well before filling. All contact surfaces have to be dissimilar materials to avoid any chance of sparks. There's more, but that's the main points of concern.

Coke as a finished product may make a good derusting solution. But in concentrated and ingredient form, its also explosive

All of a sudden, I'm kind of thirsty. I think I will have some tea

so a decade late to the string, but I was just skulking through some old posts in the forums and thought I'd share re a rust hack. I agree with the brass/bronze brush advice and would add that a pure copper penny works quite well also. the penny is useful if you are into some more serious rust and have to apply a bit more force than a brush might. To prevent rust for longer term storage, I use good old fashioned vaseline / petroleum jelly (plain, no fragrances or medications). A thin layer seems to evapourate slowly and comes off easily with a rag and a bit of gun oil.