newbie SKS question

[polymerase2]

My SKS book always shows the recoil spring with the recoil spring retainer towards the rear of the rifle and the recoil spring guide tube towards the front. When assembled there is a straight section of the spring and a curly section. I have been putting the straight section in the bolt carrier and the curly end in the receiver cover. It has never looked quite right to me so I got on line and if I understand right they put it in the other direction. So to ask this correctly, which end does the recoil spring retainer go, the bolt carrier or the receiver cover?

[OLD OUTLAW]

The curly or squiggly end MUST be inside that bolt carrier. If not, pretty quick like problems with FTFeed and FTExtract will start. You can ruin the assembly if you have it in wrong for too many rounds. I would say that about half of the problems with the SKS is that this assembly is reversed and or they are using a worthless plastic recoil buffer. Glad you asked up front before any harm was done or some one told you to buy this or that replacement.
Steve

[polymerase2]

What recoil buffer?

I have had it backwards for several hundred rounds. It looks OK. I am a little peeved that the book had the illustration reversed.If you have the 4th edition of The SKS Carbine by Kehaya, you might want to make a note on page 84.
Oh well, I got into this to learn and making mistakes, (the ones that only cost some money) is part of learning.

Two further questions
As part of this cleaning, I am going to detail strip the trigger assembly. I have seen things online that have me polishing everything.
I don't want a hair trigger, I just want it to be smoother and a little lighter.
It looks like I will get the most bang for the buck if I just lightly polish the sear where it contacts the hammer and where it rides in the rails. I'll just clean and oil the trigger contacts.

Question 2
I have the Wollf spring set, should I use them?

[Greasemonkey]

The recoil buffer is an aftermarket add on- if it is not there, don't worry with it. Some users swear by them, others despise them, out of my 10 SKS's, you won't find one

There are a few mistakes in the book, but it's a decent book considering it's about the only one. Your parts should be ok, just put it back correctly and try it, if it gives you issues, then deal with it then. It's a robust weapon and will take some abuse, I did the same thing when I got my first Yugo years ago.

As for the trigger, there are many guides on-line. I've done two of mine so far, just polish the sear, hammer, and where the sear rides(polished only, no filing). Just beware of negative hammer/sear engagement(very bad, can be very dangerous) this page has some info better describing it and how to check for it, http://yooperj.com/SKS-25.htm

Old Outlaw also suggested to me to try moly lube after a real good cleaning, I found a high concentration moly lube at work, worked it into the trigger assy., it alone made quite a difference on the one I tried it on. Much smoother now(thanks for the info Steve ) I also have the Wolff spring set, never installed them, I just keep them for spare parts, a just in case kind of thing.

[howiebearse]

Dont bother to add anything to .your well engineered carbine.If you know what you are doing you can fool around with smoothing the trigger action a bit BUT don't do it if you are not sure how to. Be careful what you read and do. Sometimes what's written was not always checked out by the Publisher. Many mistakes can be found in Publications.

[OLD OUTLAW]

And if that one is like their Swedish Mauser one, it is full of errors. You will learn far more here from the guys that do know from experience. And we
do not charge for answering your questions.

[polymerase2]

I use a trick I learned from a friend whose dad was a machinist. glue 2000 grit sandpaper to a popsicle stick and then use an exacto to cut it out. It will polish without removing much metal.
I lightly polished the sear where it rides the rails, the rails, and the place where the hammer and sear meet. No springs yet. The reassembly went OK, That trigger/safety spring pin is really challenging. Actually so is that Da*n brass button on the sling.
The trigger is nice and smooth with a good break. It still feels like aroung 8#; just no gritty feel. I think this is a good stopping point. Later I may try just the replacement sear spring.

[OLD OUTLAW]

Sounds like you have pretty well solved the problem. Happy shooting. It's fun time for it now!