"Collectors Forum" - All Mosin Nagant are discussed here. Also the Russian and "Finnish capture" SVT38 and SVT40. This is an excellent place for new Mosin owners to ask questions. We have some of the best experts here looking forward to your questions. If you post a Mosin sniper rifle here, we may or may not move it to the sniper forum.
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I would guess that stock probably came into place after WW2 in a rebuild program in Finnish hands. I have an 1895 that looks to be a sister or a brother to that rifle. A lot of rifles when they get counter bores seem to shoot a little lower as a result or right on. What is the letter on the stock with the crossed cannons? Bet its a Z! If you have trouble removing the rear barrel band with that pin there just carefully tap it into the wood a bit or try and twist the band on the wood so the break in the barrel band is there. If there is only a screw in front of the front barrel band it will all alone hold the hand guard and rear band in place. Great price and gun! Congrats! Bill
PS If the sear screw is the stuck one just grab it with a channel locks from the side and it will always come out. Then you go back to the screw driver after you have broke it lose so as not to scrape it all up. I always squirt an extra bit of oil or grease on that one during reassembly because of their proclivity to stick.
zeebill wrote:I would guess that stock probably came into place after WW2 in a rebuild program in Finnish hands. I have an 1895 that looks to be a sister or a brother to that rifle. A lot of rifles when they get counter bores seem to shoot a little lower as a result or right on. What is the letter on the stock with the crossed cannons? Bet its a Z! If you have trouble removing the rear barrel band with that pin there just carefully tap it into the wood a bit or try and twist the band on the wood so the break in the barrel band is there. If there is only a screw in front of the front barrel band it will all alone hold the hand guard and rear band in place. Great price and gun! Congrats! Bill
PS If the sear screw is the stuck one just grab it with a channel locks from the side and it will always come out. Then you go back to the screw driver after you have broke it lose so as not to scrape it all up. I always squirt an extra bit of oil or grease on that one during reassembly because of their proclivity to stick.
Thanks Bill. You're correct, it is a Z on the crossed cannons. You're also correct that it does shoot low, it has one heck of a tall front sight! I had to put it out to 400 arshins to get it perfectly centered at 100 yards. I'd much rather it shoot low than high, that at least is easy to fix by just moving the rear sight, rather than having to get a taller front sight! Your advice on the rear barrel band, just lightly tapping in the pin, is exactly what I did. It didn't take too much to give me the clearance that was needed.
I get the sear screw out after letting it soak over night in some penetrating oil. When the trigger came out, it was just a standard old trigger with that extra hole drilled into it. Was that them trying to make it into a two stage back in the day?
Lotema Argue for your limitations, and sure enough they're yours. -- Richard Bach
That extra hole was from a time when that trigger was pinned to the sear and part of a 1 piece assembly the Finn's made in a couple of different forms. The triggers were always the same I have found but the sears were slightly different from time to time in the ones I have seen. The location of that hole changed a bit too but otherwise from what I can tell the triggers were just a standard trigger so once the pin was driven out they were reused I guess in the standard manner. I don't exactly know for sure what they were trying to accomplish doing that but it does make for a smooth trigger pull for sure. Nice old rifle you got there so enjoy shooting it and caring for it! Bill
Wow holy crap that has a good bore. Unless it's just the camera you found something nearly impossible to find. An antique 1890s Mosin... WITH a good bore... for that price!? Wow... Cheapest antique mosin I have (sort of antiquish but not really, legally speaking) was sold to me for $190 dollars I beleive, cheap, but it has a shot out bore, missing front barrel band, banged up stock and other cosmetic issues. I would have easily paid more than what you paid to get that good of condition mosin of that year/any year in the 1890s with such good of a bore!
45223 wrote:Wow holy crap that has a good bore. Unless it's just the camera you found something nearly impossible to find. An antique 1890s Mosin... WITH a good bore... for that price!? Wow... Cheapest antique mosin I have (sort of antiquish but not really, legally speaking) was sold to me for $190 dollars I beleive, cheap, but it has a shot out bore, missing front barrel band, banged up stock and other cosmetic issues. I would have easily paid more than what you paid to get that good of condition mosin of that year/any year in the 1890s with such good of a bore!
I was pretty surprised about how good of condition the bore was in as well. It's got a bit of a counter bore but the rifling is dang good for a 120 year old rifle. It's not just the camera either, that was just a quickie phone pic
I would have paid more for this one too but it was his price, I didn't dicker with him. I don't expect to see another one like that as cheap again in my lifetime but you just never know! You just have to be ready to pounce when the opportunities come along.
Lotema Argue for your limitations, and sure enough they're yours. -- Richard Bach
Unless it's just the camera you found something nearly impossible to find. An antique 1890s Mosin... WITH a good bore... for that price!? Wow... Cheapest antique mosin I have (sort of antiquish but not really, legally speaking) was sold to me for $190 dollars I beleive, cheap, but it has a shot out bore, missing front barrel band, banged up stock and other cosmetic issues. I would have easily paid more than what you paid to get that good of condition mosin of that year/any year in the 1890s with such good of a bore!