Need advice on a Flint lock.

[Mikelp1973]

I'm still new here and I have posted a little about black powder. I own a Thompson center that I bought brand new in 1999. Percussion and I can't for the life of me think of the model. I still have the box and when I get home I want to post some pictures. However I have for many years admired from afar the Thompson center's version of the Hawken. Beautiful rifle and you get so much for the money. Long barrel wood and brass furniture. So I bought one from gun broker. I was told it had been only shot 5 times but it needed some tlc which I was thrilled about. I love that when I get a used rifle I completely take them down and get to cleaning. Not so simple with this one but I did clean the barrel. Removed the light rust and I have this grease that's great for long time protection which she received before going there. So anyway as always I say so much! The issue I had was this : the flash pan. So we loaded her up and I was excited. Pulled the trigger with the flash pan closed and I got a spark and no flame. So we added powder. Again no flame. More powder. No flame. So me and dad filled it with powder. I took aim pulled the trigger and Poof! Big flame which burnt my forehead and I pulled back with a muffled expletive. Then the very satisfying Boom! I shot pretty high but not too bad. I pointed the gun down looked over at dad with the dumbfounded look on my face. He was on the ground in stitches. But I was happy even though I lost a year off the end of my life. We loaded it again this time with much less powder and she fired just fine. I lay her down and I'm not kidding I went and looked in the mirror and my forehead was blackened a little I just don't understand how much powder should a man use? I want to love this one a lot more but I don't know how to take a bead on a dear and be confident she'll fire. Thanks all.
Mike

[desdem12]

I have wanted a flintlock for a good long time myself. Take her out and practice with it and you will learn the intricacys of that particular rifle. I have picked up a few in the gun store and they seem to have the same trouble of not having the flashpan lid cleaned and it had corroded some. Clean it up and oil it and cut the powder down some. Not sure if you are using 3f or 2f or what have you for the flashpan but the finer it is the better usually. WEAR A HAT.

[Junk Yard Dog]

OK, what you have learned is that a flintlock is an art. Never overload the pan, you add just enough FFFFG grade real black powder to cover the bottom of the pan just deep enough so it's just up to the level of the touchhole. Always use real black powder in a flinter, you can get away with substitute powders like Pyrodex in the main charge if you use four or five grains real black in front of it, but never use the subs in the pan. You should be getting a good shower of sparks, if you are not then the flint is dull, it is not contacting the frizzen enough or hitting weak, or the frizzen is to soft to spark. USe a new flint of the proper size for your lock, clamp it with leather into the cock, make sure if will hit at a good angle, and that the sharp edge is what is hitting. Properly done the shooters ears should not be able to pick out the whoosh of the pan and the main charge going off, it should sound like one bang. If you are not using black powder that this is likely your problem, that is real black powder, and NEVER use FFFFG size powder anyplace but in the pan, it's to fine for the main charge. Small bullets like .32 use FFFG, use a proper black powder measure, for the big bores go to FFG, and the real big ones like my Bess you can get away with FG. Always smack that bullet firmly down on top of the powder charge with your ram rod, do not leave any air gap between powder and ball or you will get a detonation that could blow the barrel. Never feed powder from your flask into the bore, it's always into the powder measure, and then into the bore even if your flask has a measure on it. One tiny ember left in that bore and your flask is a hand grenade. Getting good loading a flintlock takes a great deal of practice, every weapon has different characteristics, get some books on the subject and learn the art. If the weapon is used and the flint has gotten worn it can be rehardened, I believe track of the Wolf may do it for you.

[lalunette]

Welcome to the club.
I’ve been using a replica 1728 Saint-Étienne flintlock for the last 10 years, for firing blanks at historical events, shooting targets and, pretty soon, hunting !!
Experience and research has demonstrated one should NEVER use black powder (BP) substitutes in a flintlock. Always use real BP, such as GOEX.

I recommend 3F (FFFG) or 4F (FFFFG) in the pan and 2F (FG) or 3F (FFFG) in the barrel.

I commonly use 3F for both pan and barrel and have had good results.

NEVER use 4F in the barrel !!

Make sure the touch hole (the hole between the pan and the inside of the barrel) is free or obstruction. This will cause misfires or hangfires.

Make sure you frizzen is producing sparks. If you find that you are not getting much spark despite a new flint then your frizzen needs to be re-hardened. This can be done with a case-hardening compound such as Kasenit. Make sure to do this outdoors and quench in oil, NOT water.
Make sure you slug is rammed ALL THE WAY to the bottom of the barrel. Not doing this creates the possibility of a burst barrel, aka a pipe bomb !!

Always load using a powder measure. This way you don’t overload or turn your powder flask into a grenade.

Otherwise, have fun !! LOL

[full clip]

What was said above. Been shooting flintlocks for years the more you shoot them the more you learn just a a little powder in the pan is better than lot and keep your flint sharp.....

[Jbob]

I picked up some extra fine priming powder at a supply store just for the pan and have never had problems since. This stuff is extra extra fine and kind of reminds my of the ole square snuff powder.
I use very little in the pan and check the vent hole with a fine wire between shots to clear any burnt powder from the last shot.
Once the pan is closed I like to roll the gun to the right side and tap the lock with my hand, that moves the powder to the outside area leaving the vent hole area open. Usually once fired I can see the trail marks of where the powder was drawn right up the vent to the main charge. You don't need the pan full or the vent hole covered with powder for it to work right, always cleaning the hole after each shot with a pick helps the most.
Hope this helps some, very good advice given above also. Play with it some and see what works best for you.