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So I soaked the bore in PB blaster for about 3 hours, put a 40 cal. brush on my drill and went to work. The bore still looked horrible. Soaked again overnight and out comes rusty gooie gunk, again with the brush for 5-10 minutes, back and forth, back and forth!!!!! Still looks bad so I go put 10 rounds thru it and am amazed at what I see. I take a group of photo's to post and I think my rifles ghost is happy to be with someone who will love it and care for it no matter what it looks like. I swear that the last photograph is not photo-shopped and has not been retouched in any way. I showed the photo to my wife and she asked "how did you do that". I had to show her the photo on the camera to get her to believe me.
It is a little pitted but shoots very good, I was very suprised. Now for the stock, any ideas??????
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I always say shoot it before you call it ruined. Shooting bores clean can do wonders.
This is a collector/preservation board, and not a restoration/fix-molested-stuff board, however this rifle is not too far gone. The originality of the stock is lost, BUT, since M28s are uncommon and historical enough, I would try to rehabilitate it. For the stock, if it is hard poly, it may simply need stripping. Try mineral spirits first. Light use of a chemical stripper will remove the poly, but still retain some original color. Real Swedish pine tar with turpentine will give it th proper look.
Wow compared to the first shot of the bore in your first post, that looks amazing Not too big on the drill in the bore thing, but in this case it came out ok.
Homer2 wrote:I always say shoot it before you call it ruined. Shooting bores clean can do wonders.
This is a collector/preservation board, and not a restoration/fix-molested-stuff board, however this rifle is not too far gone. The originality of the stock is lost, BUT, since M28s are uncommon and historical enough, I would try to rehabilitate it. For the stock, if it is hard poly, it may simply need stripping. Try mineral spirits first. Light use of a chemical stripper will remove the poly, but still retain some original color. Real Swedish pine tar with turpentine will give it th proper look.
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I understand the collector/preservation board just trying to salvage what I ended up with and get back to an original configuration. I would like to find an original stock to replace the bubba one. I did use a product called "peeler" and it removed the poly but the sanding that bubba did makes it too far gone re: very rounded finger grooves. Someone obviously did not know what they had!!!!
redspoon wrote:Wow compared to the first shot of the bore in your first post, that looks amazing Not too big on the drill in the bore thing, but in this case it came out ok.
Not too big on it either but something had to be done, extreme problem=extreme measures. Very surprised how it turned out.
I definitely dont recommend the drill in the bore, but as you can tell, sometimes a nasty bore turns out much better with a few rounds through it. I've had similar ones clean up that way after firing with no drill involved.
On Facebook? Check out the non-sporter preservationist group at: OOOPS. Deleted by Facebook because it's evil to even discuss collectible firearms on social media these days.
I hate the thought of a drill in the bore too! But then I started thinking well maybe with a slow rotation and a brass brush it would not round the rifling too much. Rotating with the spin of the rifling would help too. Hot cleaning with whatever you choose to use in the way of a cleaner is the best way I have ever found for rejuvenating a rough and frosty bore. 5 or 10 shots at the range and then a good cleaning while hot will do amazing things for an ugly bore and greatly improve the accuracy. Still kind of scared with the drill on the bore though. Looks good though, although it does show some wear to the rifling. Bill
Take the rifle out and do some shooting with it, then clean it, this can knock loose some more crud.
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft.
Theodore Roosevelt
The commerce which maybe carried on with the people inhabiting the line you will pursue renders a knowledge of these people important ~Thomas Jefferson~ (to- Lewis and Clark)
Take it to the range. If you are like me you douse the bore with water to wash away most of the salts. For this type of bore I am not above taking a bore brush along with some Hoppes and patches.
JB bore paste, that's why they call it bore paste, it does work as much as it is possible. Nothing will clean away pitting, metal has been removed due to corrosion, and it is not possible to replace it. JB will scrub away anything that can be scrubbed away.
Leave it as it is. The ages have been at work on it and man can only mar it.
Don't hit at all if it is honorably possible to avoid hitting; but never hit soft.
Theodore Roosevelt
Hi Gang,
I work in a gun store with several young fellows who shoot competitively with their 'black rifles'. When I purchased my latest 91/30- a chipper-looking 1940 Izhevsk with a sleek receiver & promising rifling - I decided to show it to them with the cosmoline still on. After the laughter died down, out came the suggestions. This is the finished process:
1) M-Pro 7 cleaner (gel). It attacks carbon and will lift out charred in gunk, usually taking copper with it. It completely degreases the metal too. I was warned to keep it away from the wood stock. This is only used in the initial cleaning, or reapply Frog Lube (below). Yet the stuff's non-toxic (weird science).
2) Bore-snake. This clever thing is an oversized, coarse shoelace with a brass bristle brush embedded partway down. The diameter of the shoelace is like rope at the very end. Pulled through the bore from the breach, it scrubs the rifling that faces the breach. Makes sense.
3) Frog lube. Sort of spackles the metal - fills the pores, as it were. Heat the barrel to about 120 degrees and swab it through. Their descriptions remind me of firing a couple 'fouling shots'. It cuts cleaning time way down, I'm told. M-Pro7 will remove this stuff, that's why I was to us it only for initial cleaning or (re-apply after M-Pro7). I could even take it to the range and apply it there after the barrel warmed up.
Wow! The Kids did good. The bore cleaned up in minutes!!The Frog Lube was easy. It looks fantastic. I've treated a couple of my other rifles - whose grouping abilities I know. Eventually I'll get to the range, and I'll follow up on this thread.
~Longview
"You can never get enough of what you don't need to make you happy." - Eric Hoffer
again with the brush for 5-10 minutes, back and forth, back and forth!!!!! Still looks bad so I go put 10 rounds thru it and am amazed at what I see. I take a group of photo's to post and I think my rifles ghost is happy to be with someone who will love it and care for it no matter what it looks like. 
I swear that the last photograph is not photo-shopped and has not been retouched in any way. I showed the photo to my wife and she asked "how did you do that". I had to show her the photo on the camera to get her to believe me. 
Not too big on the drill in the bore thing, but in this case it came out ok.
just trying to salvage what I ended up with and get back to an original configuration. I would like to find an original stock to replace the bubba one. I did use a product called "peeler" and it removed the poly but the sanding that bubba did makes it too far gone re: very rounded finger grooves. Someone obviously did not know what they had!!!!
So now I must keep and preserve this rifle, it found its happy place!!!!!
some Hoppes and patches.