TURKISH Model 1888/05 Mauser

[MuzzleMarc]

Hello friends

I have found following weapon: TURKISH Model 1888/05 Mauser
After doing some research I stumbled across this page: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gewehr_1888
I think this "Gewehr 88" is the same weapon

What do you guys think about this weapon?
Actual owners here?

MuzzleMarc

[Junk Yard Dog]

These are Imperial German era rifles that were sold to Turkey and refurbished there. Some of these can be very rough, not all will be adapted to use the later 7.92mm Mauser round, 8mm Mauser spitzer round .323. All GEW88's were experimental rifles, Germany stole the formula for smokeless powder from the French in 1886, both countries were only just starting to understand what the French had invented and the 88 was Germany's first rifle to use the new powder, they can be fired, but it is risky with any load other than special made low pressure handloads.

[Longcolt44]

I have one, dated 1891. It is one of my best shooters. There are several here on the forum.

[Junk Yard Dog]

Chucks rifle is a Turk rework, note the small cutout in the receiver ring just under the 1891 date, this was done to allow the pointed spitzer bullet to enter the magazine, and the depressed area along the left side of the receiver, this is another adaption to allow the use of the stripper clips that Mauser came up with in the years after the 1888 was produced. Chucks rifle is a high end example of a Turk 88, they can be found on GB, but expect to pay $400 plus for one this nice. Ron has one also, he got a pretty good deal on his, and I have one that was a WW1 bringhome, same rifle, but it's still in it's original Imperial German issue configuration.

[MuzzleMarc]

Thank you guys for the explanation. I'm not sure anymore if I should purchase this weapon, because of the issues JYD mentioned, but I assume more or less any old weapon is risky to shoot - some more - some less, right?
Here is the link I found the weapon at the bottom of the page http://www.empirearms.com/antique.htm

MuzzleMarc

[Junk Yard Dog]

For the price it's not a bad rifle, and Dennis tends to downplay a rifle, if he says the bore is OK then it's probably almost new, in any case this one sounds like it could be a shooter.

[MuzzleMarc]

For the price it's not a bad rifle, and Dennis tends to downplay a rifle, if he says the bore is OK then it's probably almost new, in any case this one sounds like it could be a shooter.

Dennis is the guy who owns the site?
Did you ever buy from this site?

MuzzleMarc

[Rongo]

For the price it's not a bad rifle, and Dennis tends to downplay a rifle, if he says the bore is OK then it's probably almost new, in any case this one sounds like it could be a shooter.

Dennis is the guy who owns the site?
Did you ever buy from this site?

MuzzleMarc

Not me... Yet. I may get one soon.

I've heard lots of good reviews.. People seem happy with their purchases.

[MuzzleMarc]

Thank you Rongoman for the info.

MuzzleMarc

[Junk Yard Dog]

Yes, I bought my 1915 Westinghouse Finn M91 Mosin from him in 2007, It's a very nice rifle.

[MuzzleMarc]

Hello guys

I bought this weapon today. It'll be shipped today by UPS
Now I have to find the 8mm Mauser ammo. I'm very glad I found it, but would be even happier to find a Mosin Nagant, but I'm confident to get one soon ;)
Thx guys for your advice.

MuzzleMarc

[desdem12]

Congrats You are surely on your way to the disease we all suffer from.

[MuzzleMarc]

It really looks like and do you know what? My wife is encouraging me.

MuzzleMarc

[Josh Smith]

Hello,

I totally missed this.

I got mine for $37.50. People hate that, so I mention it as much as possible!

Anyway, after playing around with mine, I have come to the conclusion that even though the chamber is reworked to take the 0.323" load, it should not be attempted even with a downloaded version as the barrel was kept at 0.318".

That said, 0.318" bullets can be had all over. Try

http://www.buffaloarms.com/300_329_Diam ... x?CAT=4178

and

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/?p ... ber=530261

One of my favorite loads is the Woodleigh 200grn bullet over 42grns of Varget. I worked up from a starting load of 40.5grns. Most under 42grns will blow the primer back as the 0.323" throat allows less pressure to build. Regardless, this load is scary accurate.

I'm still playing with the 150grn spitzer. I did load and fire ONE 0.323" bullet, but the pressure was showing "iffy" even at starting loads.

I figure that, with all these 0.318" bullets available, there's no reason to tempt fate or ruin an old rifle by making the barrel swage the larger diameter bullets to size.

If you don't like shooting a foot high, go to Brownell's and get yourself a Mauser sight blank. It will fit with a little file work, and with a little more file work you will be shooting point-of-aim. Of course, put your original sight up so that it can be preserved.

The main thing, though, is never to put milsurp through it. You are inviting disaster by doing so.

Regards,

Josh

[MuzzleMarc]

Hello Josh

Thank you very very much for your detailed answer. I'll check this information out in detail and buy the correct ammo - not the milsurp ammo.
Is the Milsurp ammo to strong to put through?
On the 2nd page at http://www.buffaloarms.com/300_329_Diam ... x?CAT=4178 you can see different bullets in .318 Could you please tell me which one NOT to use and which one is the best?

Do you recommend to purchase the set of all available 3 headspace gauges or just one and which one?

I'm sorry to bother you again, but I hope you can help me.

MuzzleMarc

[Junk Yard Dog]

Modern milsurp ammo is too hot to use in these in my opinion, especially the Turk 8mm ammo, reloading is the way to go. That said, before you pick a bullet you must first have the tools to reload ammunition. Reloading press, dies, powder scale case preparation tools, cases, primers, bullets, and powder, and most important of all, a reloading manual with the reloading tables in it. Now a basic Lee reloading setup would run under $200 from Midway USA, Cabela's, or Graf & Sons, Lee dies about $25 for the set. Later when I find it I will give you a link to someone who can load you up some of the correct ammunition so you can test fire your new rifle

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/pro ... uctId/7524

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/pro ... uctId/7953

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/pro ... uctId/7730

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/pro ... ctId/12659

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/pro ... ctId/21356

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/pro ... uctId/5633

When you buy powder or primers you will have to pay a haz mat fee unless you find a local source, these fees are $25 for up to fifty pounds of powder and I guess an unlimited amount of primers, they will not ship primers and powder in the same shipment. This is why we buy in bulk, 1000 primers, or 10,000, it's the same fee for the haz mat. You can buy a set of headspace gauges, but for the safety check you only need the No/Go, or the Field, I prefer the No/Go, . Okie is not making 8mm Mauser gauges, but you can get them here-

http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/pro ... uctId/5136
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/pro ... uctId/5134
http://www.grafs.com/retail/catalog/pro ... uctId/5135

[MuzzleMarc]

Hello JYD

Thank you very much for all the information. The book you mentioned I already own since yesterday ;) . But I don't have the other stuff yet. So I'm very thankful to get the information from you.

Later when I find it I will give you a link to someone who can load you up some of the correct ammunition so you can test fire your new rifle

This would be really nice and helpful.
I really appreciate your help and input, but I really need it, because I don't know very much yet and I want to make sure that I do everything right, because it's very dangerous of course.
If I buy the brass cases are the bullets/head of the projectile included?

Thank you again for the help from you JYD, Josh, Rongoman and all the others.

MuzzleMarc

[Josh Smith]

Hello JYD

Thank you very much for all the information. The book you mentioned I already own since yesterday ;) . But I don't have the other stuff yet. So I'm very thankful to get the information from you.

Later when I find it I will give you a link to someone who can load you up some of the correct ammunition so you can test fire your new rifle

This would be really nice and helpful.
I really appreciate your help and input, but I really need it, because I don't know very much yet and I want to make sure that I do everything right, because it's very dangerous of course.
If I buy the brass cases are the bullets/head of the projectile included?

Thank you again for the help from you JYD, Josh, Rongoman and all the others.

MuzzleMarc

Hello,

No, the brass cases are just brass cases. You'll have to neck them down, in fact, so the 0.318" bullets don't fall into the powder!

This is how I prepare brass:

1. I size the neck using a .30 caliber (in my case, 7.62x54R sizing die).
2. I size the case using a 8mm (7,9x57) sizing die with a sizing button I turned down to 0.316" or so, then prime the cases.
3. I weigh each individual charge. Takes a while but is precise.
4. I seat the projectile.

As for which one on that page is most precise, I'm not sure... yet. I would guess the heavier projectiles would be best, though. However, I'm still working on the 150grn spitzer load so I may be completely wrong.

I'll let you know. I need to load up a few more right now so I'll report back in just a bit.

Regards,

Josh

[MuzzleMarc]

Ok Josh I understand.
I have still problems where to buy the bullets for 8x57 brass cases - I don't know if I miss here something - I feel very dumb right now. I'm sorry

MuzzleMarc

[desdem12]

Try Grafs.