30-06 Load Question

[kommie178]

Im going to be reloading some 30-06 ammo. I got 147gr pulled surplus bullets and used winchester cases. I was thinking doing 45gr of IMR4895 for the charges. Also I am shooting them out of an m1 garand. Thoughts?

[Jumperwire]

sounds like assisted suicide

[kommie178]

sounds like assisted suicide

:O How so?

[Jumperwire]

usually you will get your data from a book . not from someone you don't know on the internet

[kommie178]

Ive read a ton of books and watched a ton of videos on it, I just like hearing from people with experience doing it.

[Jumperwire]

oh okay . didn't want to hear a big loud earth sh attering kaboom

[kommie178]

Well I shall know tomorrow. I did some more in depth research and turns out the IMR4895 powder is the exact same powder they put in the m1 garand ammo. So I shall do 47 grains of powder just like the original m1 ammo with the same weight bullets. I shall let you all know after Saturday.

[tjtM38]

Well I shall know tomorrow. I did some more in depth research and turns out the IMR4895 powder is the exact same powder they put in the m1 garand ammo. So I shall do 47 grains of powder just like the original m1 ammo with the same weight bullets. I shall let you all know after Saturday.

I think you'll be in the ball park, but I would echo previous comments that there is no subsitute for proper load data. One thing I have tried to do over the years is find a recipe from standard published data from the bullet manufacturer (Speer, Sierra, Hornady, etc.) for the exact bullet I'm firing and start conservatively working my way up from minimum loads. I'm not an engineer and I figure someone smarter than me has done the homework and pressure testing. I don't use data from the internet unless it is from a reputable source. Hodgdon's web site has excellent online load data for all of their powders, Winchester propellants and IMR. I use Hornady bullets and data for the M1. In their latest manual, they have compete and seperate data labled "M1 Garand." The M1 needs a load that is optimum for the action. The powerful commercial loads you buy from the gun store or Walmart for hunting with the .30-06 will not be good for your weapon. If you have no source for good surplus ammo like Lake City or Greek (CMP is selling some Greek ammo that's good), you will have to reload. A couple of more notes that you may want to be aware of regarding loading for the M1:

1. Cases need to full-length sized as opposed to neck-sized. This is true for most semi-auto rifles.
2. Cases need to be trimmed to the proper trim length as specified by a reputable reloading manual.
3. Overall cartridge length should not exceed M2 Ball specifications; therefore, bullet seating depths are important. The Hornady manual and others provide this data, however the Hornady manual provides the data specifically for M1 rifles
4. A slight crimp on a bullet with a cannelure will ensure that bullets stay seated in the enbloc clip during firing and subsequent recoil.

One other recommendation regarding reloading equipment. Don't go cheap; get quality equipment and when you do, believe me, you won't regret it. I got into reloading during the early 1980's. I started with a lee loader -- the old "bang on the back with a hammer." It was a mistake. It was slow, crude and didn't produce quality loads. In 1982 I bought a RCBS Rock Chucker press and a variety of good RCBS equipment to go with it, and I have never looked back. I'm still using the same press and have updated my dies and accompanying tools over the years. This is lifetime equipment that will produce high quality handloads, long after I am dead and gone. Just my two pennies.....

[Burrhead]

The actual powder used in the M-1 that is the best match for the Gas System based on burn rate is H4895 I shoot a 150 grain Hornady bullet through my rifle and I sure don't use 47 grains. Hornady doesn't even list the IMR powder in my load manual which is the Seventh edition. So I suggest that you back off on that load. Also you should use a reloading manual and read all the reloading instructions before you start out or I am afraid you may wind up a statistic and not a very happy camper ( I don't mean to be offensive with any of this).
A few quick pointers if I might.
1. Full length size your cases and trim them to the suggested trim length 2.484".
2. Never start with the max charge. If you aren't using the exact components listed in the book then back off even more on your starting load. Example Hornady lists their 150 grain bullet, their Frontier brass, Winchester Large Rifle Prmers. If you move away from this then use a little more caution.
3. Hornady lists the min. load for this setup using H4895 of 43.2 grains and a Max of 46.4, approch the max with caution and you are not using any of these components so max is out of the picture.
4. If your data is for a bolt gun then this is a much stronger rifle then the Garand, so the listed max might be too much for your rifle.
5. If your rifling twist is different than the test weapon this will affect your chamber pressure.
6. Over all length is something that varies rifle to rifle. Take an empty case and setup the cartridge to the chamber or use the over all length listed in the book for that bullet. If you are using some other bullet of the same weight then you have to determine your cartridge over all length in your rifle.
7 Start with the min load listed and move up in .5 grain steps, watch your brass as suggested in the book for signs of high pressure.
So please get a book and look to see what is recommended and follow it. If you would like some help PM me and I'll try and do just that. Reloading is a lot of fun (been doing it for over 30 years) and it will make shooting better and less expensive.
Good Luck.
Burrhead

[kommie178]

I loaded a few bullets without incedent using the lee clasic loader I have. As for shooting them, haven't had a chance to do that yet. I might go today if my girlfriend lets me. XD

[kommie178]

All went swell! I loaded up a few hundred bullets with that charge and they all fired without a hitch, with the exception of the couple I forgot to crimp. hazzah for 30 cent ish 30 06 rounds!

[desdem12]

Sweet.

[tjtM38]

Good deal. Surplus M2 ball is getting hard to find. Reloading is the only way to go. I figure my costs are similar to yours and that is better than a buck a round.

[Junk Yard Dog]

Good to see it went well and you ain't dead, or worse, with a damaged rifle

[kommie178]

Yup yup, nice not being exploded and not having a broken gun. Now to just tune in the bullet depth and all will be swell for accuracy. Any tips on how to aim with a garand? I can imagine the sites being wonderfully for hitting human sillhouets but for the life of me I just end up turning the paper into swiss cheese with it. :/

[Junk Yard Dog]

Didn't I give you a link to some M1 rifle manuals in your first post about the rifle? These manuals will have information on the proper use of the sights, it's well worth buying one, US government issue M1 rifle manual. Now the rifle isn't in front of me, but Blue sky Garands were known for worn bores, that might be an issue effecting the accuracy more so that your shooting. Without proper gauges there is only so much you can tell by eye .

[Burrhead]

When I got mine many years ago it was an obvious parts gun as nothing seemed to match on it and I could't stay on a 8" pie plate. So I took the plunge and let Springfield Armory rework it for me. She now has a match barrel, match sights and a glass bedded walnut stock. About the only issue I have is I think my gas cylinder is on the high side of the specs and she will shot cycle when hot. The rifle will eject the case but doesn't come back far enough to strip a round out of the clip. So I never rock and roll with her and when I do my part she is an easy 2" gun. I also bought a globe front sight from Brownell's which is made for the rifle works great.