Ugh rust
Re: Ugh rust
As said before don't store in storage pouch, towels etc. Here on the east coast of Florida I use silicone treated rifle socks, clean and lube yearly and no rust on any of my firearms ever. I have used CLP and Eezox, both are good at rust prevention and the rifle socks help keep my rifles from being scratched in the gun safe.
Re: Ugh rust
rvgunner wrote:As said before don't store in storage pouch, towels etc. Here on the east coast of Florida I use silicone treated rifle socks, clean and lube yearly and no rust on any of my firearms ever. I have used CLP and Eezox, both are good at rust prevention and the rifle socks help keep my rifles from being scratched in the gun safe.
I do the same. Clean and lube, store in rifle socks in the safe. Never had a lick of rust on anything.
OP, like others have said, you need to remove the salts prior to oiling the bore. Plain old water will do the trick. I usually squirt some store brand window cleaner (cheap Windex) down the bore at the range, and then run a patch through it. When I get home, I hit it with some hot water, and then clean as usual. When I'm done, I oil it up, put it back in the gun sock, and back in the safe it goes.
Re: Ugh rust
The rifle that is showing rust most likely has more old fowling in the barrel, and the primer salts are getting forced into the fowling. When the rifle is stored improperly in gun case or cover the moisture will create rust in the bore. Using water as described, normal clean up and proper storage should solve your problem with rust. I like to inspect the bores a day or two after shooting and then again at the end of the week. Run a lube patch through and GTG for long term storage.
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cleanneon98
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Re: Ugh rust
I thought ballistol was a cleaner too. Have I been doing it wrong this whole time? I'll try with hoppes 9 next time.
So ballistol as a lubricant only? It says on te bottle it can be used as a neutralizer for corrosive ammo residue
So ballistol as a lubricant only? It says on te bottle it can be used as a neutralizer for corrosive ammo residue
1943 SAKO M39 SK.Y #505023
- WeldonHunter
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Re: Ugh rust
What you're removing from a firearm after shooting corrosively primed ammo is the "salts" left behind. Nothing neutralizes salt. It's already a neutral chemical. You need to dissolve them to remove them. Water, as hot as you can stand it, is the only thing that does this effectively. I boil water in a tea kettle and pour it through the bore outside. Some guys remove the barreled receiver from the stock to avoid getting boiling water in the shellac because it will ruin it. I still have a steady enough hand to avoid this. Just do it slowly and you should be ok. Use about a quart. Then let if sit standing up so the heat can carry away any residual water and continue on with your normal cleaning routine with a liberal coating of oil through the bore as the last step.cleanneon98 wrote:I thought ballistol was a cleaner too. Have I been doing it wrong this whole time? I'll try with hoppes 9 next time.
So ballistol as a lubricant only? It says on te bottle it can be used as a neutralizer for corrosive ammo residue
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cleanneon98
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Re: Ugh rust
So why have I seen people using Ballistol INSTEAD of Hoppes #9 to clean AND lubricate the bore after shooting? I've even seen it referenced for using on Mosins in the past because of how good it is for corrosive residue. I know you can use it for storage, but you can also use it to CLEAN bores. I use it on all my other handguns, my 22 that shoots lead. It's also great for black powder. Should I use windex and then ballistol? I clean right at the outdoor range after I get done, I really can't bring and keep hot water with me when I go. I don't have much against using Hoppes #9 but from what I've read, Ballistol is better
I just looked down the bore of Mosin #2 this morning and noticed some of the same stuff further down the bore.
Guess I gotta shoot em up nice and hot and try again. I don't really store my stuff "long term" and shoot the Mosins AT LEAST once a year, usually 3-4 times, at about 40-80 rounds per outing per Mosin.
Heres my process as I do it now.
The following twice.
30cal brush and Ballistol through bore twice.
30cal jag and cotton patches until relatively clean
patch soaked in Ballistol through the bore for storage
I hope to finally get a rifle cabinet on black friday for storage, though I doubt that will keep moisture out.
I just looked down the bore of Mosin #2 this morning and noticed some of the same stuff further down the bore.
Guess I gotta shoot em up nice and hot and try again. I don't really store my stuff "long term" and shoot the Mosins AT LEAST once a year, usually 3-4 times, at about 40-80 rounds per outing per Mosin.
Heres my process as I do it now.
The following twice.
30cal brush and Ballistol through bore twice.
30cal jag and cotton patches until relatively clean
patch soaked in Ballistol through the bore for storage
I hope to finally get a rifle cabinet on black friday for storage, though I doubt that will keep moisture out.
1943 SAKO M39 SK.Y #505023
- WeldonHunter
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Re: Ugh rust
Just because you've seen other people post that they do something doesn't mean it's correct. Corrosively primed ammo creates salts when fired. Salt attracts moisture and holds it if it isn't removed which in turn works in conjunction with oxygen to rust metal. Salt is dissolved by water. Windex is 99% water. Water is 100% water. Water flushes the salts out and hot water also helps in the removal of other residue as well as helping the remaining water to evaporate. I'm just telling you what I've used and I only shoot corrosively primed ammo in my Mosin Nagants. It's all I own for them. I got the rifles below in July of 2012, shot them a few times cleaning them exactly like I described and put them up. They've been sitting on the rack in the open air for over a year. I've checked them a few times and the bores look like you see them. I'm in Louisiana, which is extremely humid, sometimes 80% to 90% humidity in the house. The one rifle did get some rust on it but it was on the bolt handle where my arm rubbed against it as I put the rifle away after cleaning it. It was hot and humid that day. I was sweating as I cleaned them and wasn't careful as I put them away. I caught it a few days later and wiped that area down again. No problem since.
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- bunkysdad
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Re: Ugh rust
I am on my first bottle of Ballistol, and I sure do love the product for what I bought it for, which was to lube and protect, and use on the stock. I don't think I even read the can to see if it was suitable for salts, but I never expected it to be. It is a cleaner, but I use it as a exterior cleaner, to clean dirt or whatever. It leaves a sheen or film or something, but then a little buff with a clean towel and it looks good. Other than water I use and trust the Hoppes #9 and CLP. LOVE THAT CLP!
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cleanneon98
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Re: Ugh rust
I did the hot water thing, multiple brush passes, multiple patches, hoppes, ballistol, and finally got a hardened one-shot rod. Got them much better, the patches were coming out something awful. I must have used 50 per rifle easy.
I did notice that when I used hoppes 9, the patches came out black/brown.
When I used ballistol, they came out gray, like gray dress shirt gray.
Mosin #2 is looking better since it hasn't been in my neglectful hands as long. I'm sure once I shoot them a little more and repeat the process I'll have some nice bores. Also keeping everything out of a bag and in this lovely new cabinet from black friday

I did notice that when I used hoppes 9, the patches came out black/brown.
When I used ballistol, they came out gray, like gray dress shirt gray.
Mosin #2 is looking better since it hasn't been in my neglectful hands as long. I'm sure once I shoot them a little more and repeat the process I'll have some nice bores. Also keeping everything out of a bag and in this lovely new cabinet from black friday

1943 SAKO M39 SK.Y #505023
Re: Ugh rust
Balistol came out gray because it is not a bore cleaner. Hoppe's is and will dissolve powder residue in short order and then the copper deposits. I don't use Balistol for anything anymore.
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walnut red
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Re: Ugh rust
I think with a little more research you would find that the guys using Ballistol successfully long term for corrosive primers or black powder are not using straight Ballistol for cleaning. Usually it is a 1/7 to 1/10 mixture of Ballistol to water. Which means in all reality it is the water that is flushing the salts out of the barrel. The Ballistol emulsifies in the water so it gets goes anywhere the water goes.



