Russian SKS M45

[WeldonHunter]

Since everyone is showing their SKS's I thought I'd add to the mix. First thing is I'm not sure about what model it is or what year. It was given to me last year by my uncle. I knew nothing about them before then and don't know much more now. From the research I've done I came up with it maybe being a mid 1950 to 52 M45. That's by comparing the gas cylinder block here, http://www.yooperj.com/ I'm not sure how accurate this site is so maybe you guys can let us know.

The gun came just as you see it and I don't have the original bolt cover to tell exactly what year it was made or where. It has matching serial numbers and I believe they're forced matched because this gun looks to have been rearsenalled and has the extra cross bolt and a square with a line through the center on the stock. My uncle is supposed to send the original bolt cover to me. He says he has it stored away somewhere and has to find it. I've bugged him about it as much as I feel comfortable so I have to just leave it to fate as to when he sends it. He also has an AKM he's told me he's giving me so maybe he'll surprise me. To me it makes the gun less collectable but he's not that concerned about this kind of stuff.

He told me he could never get the windage in on it, that it wouldn't adjust anymore to the left. I can see why. This scope mount design was a half baked idea in my opinion. I do not like it. It has four set screws that you are supposed to screw down onto the receiver marring it with dents that will never come out. Who does this to a gun? The bolt cover was not designed to be locked down anyway, so this was a bad idea in my opinion. The pictures are the best I can do at the moment. Tell me what you think.

[desdem12]

Nice laminated stock.

[OLD OUTLAW]

Weldon old friend, that is a nice looker for sure. Very nice stock on it also. I notice it appears to have the straight 45 degree gas block.
Is the bore chrome lined or do you know for sure? A touch of cold blue just inside the bore will tell you one way or the other. Either way, after a shot or two the cold blue will be gone even if not Chrome bored. Does it by chance have a spring loaded firing pin? Let me know when ya have a chance with this info.
My best guess with out knowing above is that it is a 1950 or 1951. Not sure yet!
Steve
Weldon, forgot. Is that bayo collar a straight 90 degree cut or is one side of it angle cut.Take a close side view of that collar and I can probably have a closer guess!

[WeldonHunter]

Weldon old friend, that is a nice looker for sure. Very nice stock on it also. I notice it appears to have the straight 45 degree gas block.
Is the bore chrome lined or do you know for sure? A touch of cold blue just inside the bore will tell you one way or the other. Either way, after a shot or two the cold blue will be gone even if not Chrome bored. Does it by chance have a spring loaded firing pin? Let me know when ya have a chance with this info.
My best guess with out knowing above is that it is a 1950 or 1951. Not sure yet!
Steve
Weldon, forgot. Is that bayo collar a straight 90 degree cut or is one side of it angle cut.Take a close side view of that collar and I can probably have a closer guess!

I think if you look at the 5th picture down you can make out the chrome lining. It's definitely a chrome lined bore. I've included some more pictures at the end of the thread of the bayonet collar and no it doesn't have a spring loaded firing pin. I know because I just took the bolt out and checked, ;)

[OLD OUTLAW]

Weldon old friend, that is a nice looker for sure. Very nice stock on it also. I notice it appears to have the straight 45 degree gas block.
Is the bore chrome lined or do you know for sure? A touch of cold blue just inside the bore will tell you one way or the other. Either way, after a shot or two the cold blue will be gone even if not Chrome bored. Does it by chance have a spring loaded firing pin? Let me know when ya have a chance with this info.
My best guess with out knowing above is that it is a 1950 or 1951. Not sure yet!
Steve
Weldon, forgot. Is that bayo collar a straight 90 degree cut or is one side of it angle cut.Take a close side view of that collar and I can probably have a closer guess!

I think if you look at the 5th picture down you can make out the chrome lining. It's definitely a chrome lined bore. I've included some more pictures at the end of the thread of the bayonet collar and no it doesn't have a spring loaded firing pin. I know because I just took the bolt out and checked, ;)

Lug is definitely not a straight cut. Bore is chrome. Sooo, I would have to say with the 45 degree gas block, your rifle is an early to mid 1951!

[WeldonHunter]

Thanks Steve, I was wondering exactly when it was made. Now to figure out where. I may have to wait for the bolt cover to show up. The good news is maybe my uncle will find it when he starts moving his stuff. He's selling his house in Maryland and has bought one in Florida so maybe just maybe he'll come across it during the move.

[OLD OUTLAW]

Thanks Steve, I was wondering exactly when it was made. Now to figure out where. I may have to wait for the bolt cover to show up. The good news is maybe my uncle will find it when he starts moving his stuff. He's selling his house in Maryland and has bought one in Florida so maybe just maybe he'll come across it during the move.

Where is the easiest part. It definitely was made at the Tula Arsenal. Izhevsk rifles were only manufactured in 1953 and 1954. None of the Izhevsk rifles had the early gas block like yours. Guaranteed answer as to who and where it was originally manufactured. Just for you!!

[WeldonHunter]

Thanks Steve, I was wondering exactly when it was made. Now to figure out where. I may have to wait for the bolt cover to show up. The good news is maybe my uncle will find it when he starts moving his stuff. He's selling his house in Maryland and has bought one in Florida so maybe just maybe he'll come across it during the move.

Where is the easiest part. It definitely was made at the Tula Arsenal. Izhevsk rifles were only manufactured in 1953 and 1954. None of the Izhevsk rifles had the early gas block like yours. Guaranteed answer as to who and where it was originally manufactured. Just for you!!

Another mystery solved. I really appreciate it. I still won't be happy until I have the original bolt cover. That and I want to see if I can talk him out of the original stock for the Garand he gave me with this one.

[OLD OUTLAW]

There is absolutely no doubt that having that original bolt/receiver cover will raise the value of that rifle. Without it, it will be looked at as a Bubba
rifle I can assure you.

[WeldonHunter]

There is absolutely no doubt that having that original bolt/receiver cover will raise the value of that rifle. Without it, it will be looked at as a Bubba
rifle I can assure you.

Exactly. Like I said "I do not like it". The price was right. What can be done to make the nicks less noticable in the furniture? It almost looks like it's finished with a coat of polyurethane. Oh and it's a bit loose in the stock. One of the cross bolts is tight but the other one that has the weird non-slotted, head with two holes in it on both sides of the stock is loose. The tool kit is in the buttstock but I don't remember it having anything that fits these. I'll have to look again. What do you use to tighten these. Keep in mind I'm an A.S.E. Master certified auto tech not a gunsmith. I know mechanical but don't have much in the way of gunsmithing tools.

[ponycarman]

Awesome rifle!

Sent from my LS670 using Tapatalk

[martin08]

I agree that it is likely a mid 1951 or 1952 Tula.

DON'T TOUCH the front crossbolt... please.
There are "ears" under the slotted bolt head that will damage your stock if you attempt to turn it with a screwdriver. If the rear crossbolt is loose, use a spanner wrench or e-clip pliers and tighten it up, but it has no bearing on the tightness in the stock. If you want to shim behind the rear of the receiver, it will do wonders for the action, and also give you more consistent accuracy.

Nice gun, for sure. Hope you can find the original rear cover.

[WeldonHunter]

I agree that it is likely a mid 1951 or 1952 Tula.

DON'T TOUCH the front crossbolt... please.
There are "ears" under the slotted bolt head that will damage your stock if you attempt to turn it with a screwdriver. If the rear crossbolt is loose, use a spanner wrench or e-clip pliers and tighten it up, but it has no bearing on the tightness in the stock. If you want to shim behind the rear of the receiver, it will do wonders for the action, and also give you more consistent accuracy.

Nice gun, for sure. Hope you can find the original rear cover.

Thanks good to know martin. If that's true then wouldn't it do the same if you unscrew that slotted crossbolt or is there only ears on one of the heads to dig into the stock to help lock it in to place as a sort of lock washer affect? I did put a screwdriver on it and try to turn it but it seemed tight so I left it alone. I also noticed the rear one with the holes in them is somewhat loose. I pushed the head around with screwdriver in one of the two holes. The whole thing spins and from either side. I hadn't even thought about e-clip pliers. I figured there might be some sort of spanner wrench for this but I don't have any of them. Not much call for them working on cars. Now the e-clip pliers I have a bunch of. I only noticed the looseness when I pulled the bolt back yesterday to inspect the firing pin to answer Old Outlaws question.

If I have anything to do with it I'll be getting the bolt cover. The good thing is I know where it is and it's my uncle that has it.

[martin08]

I do believe the rear crossbolt is eared, as well. I've never taken one out. But if you bugger that one up, it won't affect the action. The front one is critical.

[WeldonHunter]

I do believe the rear crossbolt is eared, as well. I've never taken one out. But if you bugger that one up, it won't affect the action. The front one is critical.

Ok Martin, mystery solved. The rear crossbolt is a shaft threaded on both sides with 2 spanner type nuts that have 2 holes in each. No ears on the spanner nuts/bolts with holes. I took a better look at the front crossbolt and it's slotted on the left side and has a spanner bolt with 2 holes on it like the rears on the right side. I took the rear crossbolt out just to inspect it. Now that I see what the front one has I see how this works. The front one having the claws like you describe is supposed to be tighened from the spanner nut side and the slot is only to hold the slotted side from moving during assembly and disassembly. Makes sense. I've taught many an apprentice this. If possible always tighten a nut and bolt assembly from the side that the nut is on. This is to stop unnessecary twisting on the shank of the bolt. In this case it's a similar but different principle. You're tightening from the spanner nut side to avoid turning the slotted head of the bolt to stop the stripping of the wood. The other thing I learned here is these bolts/spanner nuts really have nothing to do with holding the stock tight but only hold the stock to the receiver/barrel assemebly and if over tightened the wood will be severly damaged maybe even cracking the stock. Thanks Martin.

Now the other question is how/where would you shim this to deminish the slack? It's not much, maybe less than a millimeter. It's noticable though. Or should I just leave it be?

Mike

Note: I just found this on Numrich. http://www.gunpartscorp.com/catalog/Pro ... atid=11964
If you look at part #60 they're calling it a recoil lug assembly and the ears you're describling are plainly visable. Though I did put a screwdriver on this bolt I realized it wasn't moving and stopped. You confirmed why for me Martin.

[OLD OUTLAW]

Mike, I have shimmed a number of various SKS, whether I thought they needed it or not. But especially had to any noticed as loose.
My preferred method is thin Aluminum tape from any lumber yard. I put it in the slot in the stock at the rear of the receiver.
Does the tape stick to the wood real well? No,it doesn't. But, eventually it gets formed into place just fine. I have 9 rifles I shoot a lot, Russian, Chinese, Yugo M59's, and Romanian. Shimmed every darn one of them and they all became much more accurate. I think I can safely say 90% plus SKS owners never notice or even think of this. Because it is a Military rifle. I just put strip after strip in until the receiver fits real snug into that stock. I have a sheet of paper that I wrote down on how many strips I cut and put in each rifle. So, if I lose one when the receiver is removed from the stock, I just put the same number of cut strips back in. The roll of tape for this I bought, was about $3.50 a roll. Enough for all of my approximately 35 SKS if I ever wanted to shoot the others. One roll will last me longer than I have left.

Edit: By the way my friend, why are you making me drool over those nice ammo cans. That is pure torture!

[bunkysdad]

Hi Mike. Hey I'm a certifed master tech also. I sure hope your business is better than mine right now. I don't remember it ever being this slow. Although I have never touched one of the cross bolt nuts on the SKS or Mosins I am sure that a snap ring pliers would work ok. Maybe the 90 deg angled ones.

[WeldonHunter]

Mike, I have shimmed a number of various SKS, whether I thought they needed it or not. But especially had to any noticed as loose.
My preferred method is thin Aluminum tape from any lumber yard. I put it in the slot in the stock at the rear of the receiver.
Does the tape stick to the wood real well? No,it doesn't. But, eventually it gets formed into place just fine. I have 9 rifles I shoot a lot, Russian, Chinese, Yugo M59's, and Romanian. Shimmed every darn one of them and they all became much more accurate. I think I can safely say 90% plus SKS owners never notice or even think of this. Because it is a Military rifle. I just put strip after strip in until the receiver fits real snug into that stock. I have a sheet of paper that I wrote down on how many strips I cut and put in each rifle. So, if I lose one when the receiver is removed from the stock, I just put the same number of cut strips back in. The roll of tape for this I bought, was about $3.50 a roll. Enough for all of my approximately 35 SKS if I ever wanted to shoot the others. One roll will last me longer than I have left.

Edit: By the way my friend, why are you making me drool over those nice ammo cans. That is pure torture!

Steve I know exactly what kind of tape you're talking about. I've used lots of it to seal up the exhaust pipes on the waterheater and furnace vents while rehabing my mothers house in California. As far as the ammo cans go, well I did the same thing when I saw them. I started out buying them from CheaperThanDirt. After being screwed over by them and purchasing 20 used supposed Grade 1, 20 new unissued (turned out to be factory seconds) .50 cals I met Sam at SGAmmo and he had PA120s so I bought a bunch of them on an order, 20 actually. Then he sent me 8 when he was almost sold out of them just because. If you don't know what they look like here's some in the post I made about my M44, http://www.russian-mosin-nagant-forum.c ... ?f=5&t=732 Those are actually my buddy's I was holding for him. He went in on the order and was paying me in installments. I have about 70 .50cal and PA120 cans around here and most are full. I love ammo cans and ammo.

[WeldonHunter]

Hi Mike. Hey I'm a certifed master tech also. I sure hope your business is better than mine right now. I don't remember it ever being this slow. Although I have never touched one of the cross bolt nuts on the SKS or Mosins I am sure that a snap ring pliers would work ok. Maybe the 90 deg angled ones.

BD I'm semi retired now. I only do jobs when I feel like it but I had my own business in California for 12 years long before the housing boom and during and up until the bust. I was in the central valley, a commuter town and there was plenty of business but when it started to die down my customer base dropped off significantly and about that time a friend that had a shop in town asked me to come help me run his shop. He had some clowns working for him and he let go about 4 of them. He asked me to help him catch up, gave me keys to the shop, alarm codes and told me when the shop was closed it was mine to use as I wanted to take care of my customers. I had until then been doing mobile repair but the market was changing and then the housing bust hit and we were ground zero. I was his shop foreman for 3+ years and decided to leave and come to Louisiana before it got to bad. It's real slow here but I'm in the country now so I believe it's this way anyway. I've worked on my share of tractors and farm equiptment here that's for sure. As a side note I don't know how old you are or if you even remember this but A.S.E. use to be N.I.A.S.E. That's what it was called when I first certified in about 1980.

The 90 deg. snap ring pliers are exactly the ones I used and they worked like a champ.

[WeldonHunter]

By the way my friend, why are you making me drool over those nice ammo cans. That is pure torture!

But then again you'd make me drool if you posted pictures of all of your SKS collection. Steve would it be mean to show you this? What you don't see is the crates beside those stacked just as high. Four more crates in another closet and tins under the bed and dresser. The stuff's everywhere. Did I mention I like ammo and ammo cans?