I'm still having problems with the SKS

[polymerase2]

It is not the bolt face it is smooth. I kept some of the fired rounds and the primers were perfect. Dimpled but not pierced.

Two problems for sure.
I do not have a Yugo firing pin retainer, the head will fit if I turn it around. The problem is the curve where the head meets the pin. That is why it won't go all the way in. Thanks for the link to the SKS site.
I looked carefully at the action to see if there were any signs of rubbing. I suspected that when the extractor was engaged to the bottom of a shell that it was pushed sideways and wedged the bolt. No sign of that that I could tell. It could still be wedging the bolt carrier?

New clue. When the bolt is in battery it drops down into a notch and depresses the disconnector which allows the sear to release the hammer. There was a little flake of metal in the corner about a 1/2mm thick. this would cock the bolt slightly to the side. Possible? Could the bolt be getting wedged against the bolt carrier?

Somehow I have to make all the symptoms make sense, the misfire, the firing pin stuck to the rear and the stuck bolt and bolt carrier. Also the fact that it was a sudden failure, it worked then stopped working. Such as that piece of metal or the overprotruding FP retainer.

So here is my next move. I think.
Buy some more firing pin retainers and try to get Yugo's. If not I can modify.
Clean the firing pin and the inside of the bolt with alcohol.
With the removal of that the small piece of metal in the receiver, the small piece of metal in the firing pin housing, and the proper FP retainer;I should be OK to try some single shots with a face shield.

I was also thinking of pulling the bullets and removing the powder and just firing a few primed cases to check the operation out a little more safely.
I looked at the link to Murrays, What he does won't cure a bad FP retainer. I left him an email to see if he does Yugo's.

[OLD OUTLAW]

Murray can do that. Your first problem may have led to others. When a primer punctures, the super heated gas will melt metal.
For the retainer, your best bet is to use the drawings and dimensions to fit your own. Just burr the shaft so it will hold tight. And, grind off that weld all other retainers have and I think you will be fine. Especially after you found the other bits of metal. Personally, I'll guess that you have perhaps resolved the problem.
Good Luck to You!
Steve

[polymerase2]

Thats my plan. The end of the semester is coming so work will take over for a while. I suspect that a properly fitting retaining pin plus the removal of that little piece of metal will solve the problem. it makes sense. The slighly cocked bolt would prevent the hammer from fully striking the firing pin. The tilt plus the extended retaining pin head could wedge the bolt carrier.

By the way, what would you think is easier, grinding/filing the retaining pin to fit or chamfering where it fits the bolt?

Interesting side note. I ordered that last retaining pin from Numrich. It said SKS 59/66. I looked back at the page and each SKS had its own description, Russian, Yugo and Chinese retaining pins. Too bad it was the same part number for all.

[OLD OUTLAW]

I would recommend never modifying that bolt. Just the retaining pin. Pins are relatively cheap compared to a bolt and then having to have every thing re-head spaced. Pins only Sir!

[WeldonHunter]

Thats my plan. The end of the semester is coming so work will take over for a while. I suspect that a properly fitting retaining pin plus the removal of that little piece of metal will solve the problem. it makes sense. The slighly cocked bolt would prevent the hammer from fully striking the firing pin. The tilt plus the extended retaining pin head could wedge the bolt carrier.

By the way, what would you think is easier, grinding/filing the retaining pin to fit or chamfering where it fits the bolt?

Interesting side note. I ordered that last retaining pin from Numrich. It said SKS 59/66. I looked back at the page and each SKS had its own description, Russian, Yugo and Chinese retaining pins. Too bad it was the same part number for all.

Yeah I'm not to happy with Numrich myself. They don't really have anyone to ask questions number one. I restored a Stevens Savage 311 and needed a hammer set for it and when I called them they had no one to ask about the different sub models. I can understand that to a point. They made so many of them for this gun but what really got me pissed was the hammer set I got looked like one of them was used. One of the very tiny firing pin springs was smashed and it was packed so that it didn't happen during shipping so it was sent that way. Last thing was the stock bolt washer. Being a bit of a purest I though I should get a new stock bolt and washer since the others were a bit rusted and the washer was deformed. The new one which cost me $3.50 was a plain old run of the mill 3/8" steel non-hardened washer of which I have many hundreds in my shop and it was used. I'm not happy with them at all but when it comes to obscure parts they have stuff no one else does. I just wish they gave better descriptions of stuff like that it's used parts. That's my rant for the night. Thank you and good night.

[polymerase2]

My favorite milsurp Aim, has surplus Albanian retaining pins for $1.50. They have some other parts too so I'll put together a SKS survival kit and order tomorrow. Any suggestions besides another firing pin and some retaining pins? I'd like to try to get it to work with the stock parts. I'm a fussy gun cleaner so I am not too worried about slam fire.

[OLD OUTLAW]

My favorite milsurp Aim, has surplus Albanian retaining pins for $1.50. They have some other parts too so I'll put together a SKS survival kit and order tomorrow. Any suggestions besides another firing pin and some retaining pins? I'd like to try to get it to work with the stock parts. I'm a fussy gun cleaner so I am not too worried about slam fire.

I have a number of those AIM Albie firing pins. BUT, they under the grease may have some corrosion as a couple of mine. Soak in PB Blaster or similar,
rub hard, very hard with 0000 steel wool. And, note the shape of the tip, it is a little more blunt than other pins. Work fine if you soak and then really rub down smooth with 0000 steel wool. Otherwise, the cheaper cost will catch up with you. Rub all surfaces and angles with the steel wool. All of the entire pin!
When smooth as glass, they do work. If you don't,look out for more problems that you have already experienced. Just for what its worth.

[cyknight]

FWIW, a spring-loaded firing pin in this case provides two benefits. One, it greatly reduces (basically removes) the risk of slam-fire. Two, because it's spring-loaded, the firing pin will provide pressure against the retainer. I of course can't guarantee that would absolutely fix the problem, but is sure couldn't hurt.

[OLD OUTLAW]

With a spring loaded firing pin, if you have one bad primer that blows out, it does melt the spring with the super hot gases. Then you may also very well have a slam fire.Had a Tula primer puncture and Murray told me not to fire the gun again until the bolt was completely disassembled and cleaned. He also mailed me a replacement spring at no charge to me. Spring loaded firing pins simply are not a cure all. A clean bolt, firing pin, and firing pin channel work just as well.
A spring loaded firing pin is for not puncturing soft primers, especially for ammo made by US manufacturers. Or bad lots of soft Russian primers.

I have some of both in the 9 SKS rifles I use for shooters. The spring loaded can and will fail to fire some of the lots of hard primers sold in ammo. Like the Military Surplus rounds at times. In 1949 and 1950 the Russians used spring loaded firing pins. Then that ceased. They and their allies never did use a spring loaded firing pin after 1950. Just remove the firing pin retainer and clean the pin and channel once in awhile. If the inside channel builds up dirt and corrosion,
no spring will stop a slam fire when the pin sticks forward. If the spring system is so good, why did the Russians drop it and no other countries ever use it?
Just FWIW.

[cyknight]

With a spring loaded firing pin, if you have one bad primer that blows out, it does melt the spring with the super hot gases. Then you may also very well have a slam fire.Had a Tula primer puncture and Murray told me not to fire the gun again until the bolt was completely disassembled and cleaned. He also mailed me a replacement spring at no charge to me. Spring loaded firing pins simply are not a cure all. A clean bolt, firing pin, and firing pin channel work just as well.
A spring loaded firing pin is for not puncturing soft primers, especially for ammo made by US manufacturers. Or bad lots of soft Russian primers.

I have some of both in the 9 SKS rifles I use for shooters. The spring loaded can and will fail to fire some of the lots of hard primers sold in ammo. Like the Military Surplus rounds at times. In 1949 and 1950 the Russians used spring loaded firing pins. Then that ceased. They and their allies never did use a spring loaded firing pin after 1950. Just remove the firing pin retainer and clean the pin and channel once in awhile. If the inside channel builds up dirt and corrosion,
no spring will stop a slam fire when the pin sticks forward. If the spring system is so good, why did the Russians drop it and no other countries ever use it?
Just FWIW.

Quite right old chap, nothing is a "fix-all". I saw an SKS run away once, and it left an impression on me. I DO advocate the spring-loaded firing pin, and have installed them on my customer's rifles as well as my son's, and my own. But yes, it is not an absolute guarantee of anything. If it was, then I'd have way more work than I could handle! To each their own, and I do hope that the problem with the SKS gets resolved safely and quickly.

[OLD OUTLAW]

So do I. He has had a real hand full of problems to solve. But, appears to be on the safe track now.

[cyknight]

So do I. He has had a real hand full of problems to solve. But, appears to be on the safe track now.

[polymerase2]

Pulled out the Dremel last night and worked on the weld on the retainer. Took some fine sandpaper and slighly chamfered the hoed for the FP retainer. Between the two I have a good fit. One thing I noticed is the overprotrusion of the FP retainer and a little looseness ( is that a word?) on the extractor would explain the stuck bolt and bolt carrier. When I put them together I can see how a wedge could form. So I plan to try some snap caps (could't pull bullets without buggering up the shell casing). If that works I'll try at least 20 rounds single shot. I think that plus the little piece of metal in the receiver would explain all of the symptoms. Will update when I get to the range. I will be wearing my big eye protection.

[OLD OUTLAW]

I think you are on the right track now. Hopefully, you have the jam problem solved.
Steve

[martin08]

Let us know.

[OLD OUTLAW]

Let us know.

Matt, been thinking about it all day, but the multiple colored beanie does not match your facial make up.

[polymerase2]

Tried 7.62 x 39 snap caps today and everything worked so far. I wanted to test with the extractor engauged because it makes the bolt wider. So when I find some time, I'll start with single shots then doubles at the range. I think I have this solved.

[desdem12]

I hope so, It has been a long journey

[OLD OUTLAW]

I sure hope so. Like Desdem12 said, you have had a loong journey! Keep us posted.