SKS bolt disassembly

[pacolo90]

So, i've been trying to pound away at the little pin on my Yugo SKS bolt in order to take it apart and clean it up. The bolt is full of sticky grease and the firing pin does not move freely. I've been using a small punch and hammer to try and take the pin out but it wont budge. I need advise on taking the bolt apart or some other way of getting the grease out. thanks guys

[Greasemonkey]

I've only had one give me a fit getting it out, I soaked it in PB Blaster and Kroil Penetrating Oil for a day or two, used a punch roughly slightly smaller than the pin diameter and a nice healthy hammer. A good solid surface is a requirement also, it took a few good wacks and it slowly came out.

As for getting the cosmoline out without disassembly, soaking it in kerosene or very hot water, you will get some of it, but not all of it, and it could cause an issue later if not all fully removed. Personally, I will not fire one till I've tore down and cleaned the bolt and the firing pin channel is clean and pin moves freely.

[RMXC51]

Brake cleaner. Works almost instantly and no risk of parts damage. Rattle rattle goes the firing pin.

[martin08]

A good drift punch is sometimes needed to get the pin moving. A cylindrical shaped pin punch can sometimes break/bend under the heavy hit of a hammer. But the conical shaped drift punch will withstand a pretty good "rap" from the ballpeen. Don't be shy. Smack it with some authority, and then finish the job with a pin punch. Not uncommon for the retainer to be a little stubborn.

[bunkysdad]

Good advice, hope you will be sure and let us know how it goes.

[pacolo90]

Thanks for the advice guys, i'll get the stuff and give it a try

[polymerase2]

It helps if the surface that is holding the bolt is solid. I use the top of my table saw and straddle the groove for the miter gauge. I do give it a good whack. I just finished the Albanian. I soaked the bolt for about a week and still had to whack it good with a drift punch.

[OLD OUTLAW]

It helps if the surface that is holding the bolt is solid. I use the top of my table saw and straddle the groove for the miter gauge. I do give it a good whack. I just finished the Albanian. I soaked the bolt for about a week and still had to whack it good with a drift punch.

I put mine between 2 smooth bricks lying on the concrete patio floor. A good solid whack works every time. Putting overthe jaws on a large vise also works. Base has to be rock solid!

[polymerase2]

Be sure you have a decent punch. Sears has them for under $20. Another point, the pin usually won't budge at all at first. This seems to be true for most of the pins on these milsurps, expecially the really dirty ones. Whack it a little harder; once it breaks loose it moves pretty easily. It is that first mm that takes the force.
When I was working on the trigger assembly of the Albanian, I really had to whack the pin holding the magazine latch. It slightly bent the front of the trigger plate which put a bind on the magazine latch and the sear after I reassembled everything. I just used a wide drift pin to spread it just enough for those parts to move smoothly again. This is part of the learning process.

[pacolo90]

Where can i get Kroil Oil locally? or should i just order it online?

[pacolo90]

well, a good 1/8 punch and two bricks did the trick. i had been the using the smaller punch that comes with the cleaning kit.

[OLD OUTLAW]

well, a good 1/8 punch and two bricks did the trick. i had been the using the smaller punch that comes with the cleaning kit.

Glad to hear it worked. I use a cheap lumber yard 1/8 steel punch. But the two brick trick always works perfectly. Been putting those twp bricks on the concrete patio and taking pins out for years now. Never fails to work for me..